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New Machine Build Too heavy?!

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The machine is too heavy. We need 3 sets of 3-5 ton Forklift!


ACME LASER EXPO. INVITATION
21th Jinan International CNC Machine Tools Exhibition
27-29,March,2018 Booth B-160
Jinan International Convention Centre(High-tech Zone)
Showing Professional Pipe Tube Laser Cutting Machine
Welcome Visit !


How to best add intermittent air burst

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I'd like to add an intermittent air burst, that blows for about 0.7 seconds every 5 seconds of cutting. Ideally, without stopping motion. I imagine I'll use an air control solenoid on a separate feeder hose from my compressor (which also feeds the power drawbar.)

With the Tormach USB I/O board, I could set this up with M codes, except I imagine I'd have to program the M codes manually, and I'd have to figure out where in each G code movement would be the appropriate time. Not great!

I guess there are three questions here:

1) How do I map the post processors "air blast" feature to a particular M code?
2) Could I program the I/O board to do the intermittent bursts for me? Or perhaps hook up some 555 timer monstrosity that is in turn triggered by the USB I/O M-code?
3) Or is there some way to hook into the PathPilot / LinuxCNC setup to generate the appropriate pulses? (I wouldn't need the Tormach I/O for this; I could do my own then, based on an Arduino or Teensy or something.)

I poked around in the PathPilot code a bit, and I found the "schnozz" module which controls the smart-cool; it seems to be a convenient way of learning things I'd like to do. (Also, I'm glad to see that SmartCool uses Dynamixel servomotors, which I've used for several robotics projects!)
But how do I best learn how to add modules to PathPilot? How do I get it to load my module? How do the modules communicate? Is there some hacker's guide or something somewhere?

Need Help! Veneta curve cnc band saw

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hello experts.
I need all the documentation i can get my hands on for this machine or if people have worked with this type of machine and knows the basics I would love to ask a few questions.
Please see pictures
also if anyone know how to change the language from italien to english that would be great.

anything will help. thanks in advance
Best regards
Flemming

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Need Help! Veneta shuttle curve cnc band saw

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hello experts.
I need all the documentation i can get my hands on for this machine or if people have worked with this type of machine and knows the basics I would love to ask a few questions.
Please see pictures
also if anyone know how to change the language from italien to english that would be great.

anything will help. thanks in advance
Best regards
Flemming

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TOYOKOKI PRESS BRAKE FOLLWER

Vertical Profile mark left after doing a lead out. is there a way to prevent it?

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I am trying to see if there is a way to prevent from having this vertical mark from occurring after doing a profile cut. I am doing both a circular lead in and circular lead out with a 1 inch overcut but unfortunately that is still not preventing from the mark occurring when the end mill exits the cut.



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X Way Cover Install Question

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Hey everyone,

I have a very basic and embarrassing question to ask:

Having removed the x way covers a while ago, I've forgotten how to install the bolts on the front and back which mate to the sheetmetal plates on the front and back of the table.

There seems to be no threaded feature, so I assume a nut was behind the sheetmetal plate...but how is it retained while you slide on the X way cover?

Thanks!

heidenhain manualplus 620

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Hello,
i am the new guy on the forum :)

I work with turning machine Dmt Kern 820 with rotary tools, operating controller Heidenhain manualplus 620. Does anyone work with the same machine?

I want use the rotary milling tool(mill with c-axis), but i dont know how to programmed it.Can someone send me some program with c-axis? I want to look how it looks like.

thanks,m


We need your help for develop a mobile app

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Hi

We just relased new mobile app for metalworkers called "Camcut".
We need your help. What you guy's think about it? Is there any development ideas for the the app?
If you find that something doesn't work or you find some other problems with app you can post them here so we can fix it. If you find something post a problem and type of device what you are using.

Camcut mobile app includes a variety of technical calculators which help you to calculate machining values, coordinates, thermal expansion and other calculations related to metalwork. The application also includes many different standardized tables, which have been published with the permission of Finnish Standards Association (SFS). In these tables you can find for example dimensions for different threads as well as general and ISO tolerances. The application's guides include plenty of useful information about most relevant topics in machining, such as G-codes and functionalities of Mastercam. The application is specifically designed as a tool for production workers and other personnel of machining workshops, as well as an aid for metalwork teachers and students. The application is free of charge at GooglePlay or AppStore by name "camcut".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bU3upkC8NI


Need Help! Pure Mini

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Has anybody got any experience with the Pure Mini Desktop Laser. This is being sold by radecalmachinesales in the Uk.
Any help would be most grateful.

Alan

Configuring ST-V2 BOB for 0-10V analogue control Mach3

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I am retrofitting my cnc mill, and finally I have everything wired up (I hope), but I need some help for configuration for spindle control.
I run a 0.44 kw DC motor (stock) that is powered with HX-SXPWM-A Pulse-Width DC motor speed controller Digital AC180V-260V DC180V.

I can start/run the spindle with potentiometer that was already attached to the speed controller, but I want to control it through software.
I am using a common 5axis china bob, ST-V2, with one relay. I took pictures of how is everything wired there (nothing too fancy, I am not an electrician or have too much experience in this field) with a help from a friend.
How should I set up the ports/pins, motor outputs, input/output signals and spindle setup? what pwm freq and minimum pwm to use? And did I wire up everything I need?
While searching, I found that I should move the jumper on board for P17 (will have to try that too) for spindle control (I didnt touch anything there).
And also, one strange thing (that concerns me most) is when I start motor speed controller manually, the Z axis moves a bit in one or another direction, even if steppers are not receiving any command from me. I believe I used proper shielded cables on everything that was necessary,
and could that be happening from inadequate port/pinc configuration?
Thanks


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Newbie I am new to this

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Hello
I work with my father and he has experience of CNC routers, but now. For lack of a better word, a hot wire Woodpecker ST-I "fell on our lap" and I was wondering if there is any guide online on how to use it.
Thank you

Homing switches and relays.

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I am using hall effect homing switches. They are all 12V, with a 12v output signal. My input board is a smooth stepper, that only wants to see 5v, I have a circuit I can wire up to use this directly, but I was thinking of using relays.

I was thinking about using 12V relays, and wiring it so that the output would be 5V ttl.

If I use relays is the switching time of a relay consistent enough that my homing will be consistent?

I'm only looking for around .005" of accuracy from the machine. But all inaccuracy adds up, so my goal is to do the best I can at each stage.

Proximity Limit Switch PnP

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Good people,
I would like to use proximity switches for my hard limits and I am having a problem knowing if they work. I have the switches in series , when a solid object is placed in front of a switch a red light comes on now how do I tell if it is disconnecting the power ? I do not have them fastened to the machine they are connected to a breadboard at this time.-

How to create single line text using MillWrite V8

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Hi all,

since I own a pen plotter I'm always searching fonts for it. Those fonts you have either to buy or or you have to buy pretty expensive CAM software to create them.
Except some Hershey fonts for Inkscape I figured out a solution to create real single line fonts from every ttf font you have installed in Windows.

Step #1 : Lets start MillWrite V8, click on the tab named 'Engraving list' and type your text. Set the desired height of the text on the right and choose the Windows font you'd like to use.

Step #2 : Now click on the tab named 'Drawing' you'll see your text in a dashed rectangle frame showing your text is one object.

Step #3 : Hover the mouse over the frame until the right side of the screen changes to two tabs offering some settings. Move the mouse quickly to the right side and left click on the 'Tool' tab.
In the line beside the word 'Usage' click into the drop-down menu and left click 'Drawing aid'.
This will prevent MillWrite from creating G-Code of your text.

Step #4 : With your text in the frame visible left click on the right side on the button ' Select from all commands '.
A list will pop up showing all commands you can use within MillWrite. Now just start typing ' create poly '. Since MillWrite knows only one command starting with that words you will see a command ' Create polyline along center ' in a dashed rectangle. Left click in that line.
The command list disappears and the screen will only show your text.
On the top of the screen you'll see a hint that you must click the shape you want to convert to a single line along the center of that shape.
Move the mouse pointer over the dashed rectangle around your text and left click on it.
MillWrite starts now calculating the center lines of each letter one by one. Depending on the length of your text this might take some minutes.

Step #5 : When calculation is finished you see the center lines in different colors within the letters. Different colors because MillWrite knows the ASCII code of each letter and puts the center lines on the appropriate layer of each letter. And coz each layer has its own color the single lines have different colors, too.

Step #6 : Now to see only the single lines and not the ttf outlines you can turn the layer 0 which holds the ttf font to invisible. Just click on the layer button above the drawing area, uncheck layer 0 and click OK.

Step7 : Final work -> select the Setup tab and there the NC Format if not already shown by default.
Choose a post processor according to your control software and then click the NV program tab.
You'll see the Gcode for your lines and now you can save the Gcode by clicking Copy to USB, floppy, network on the right.
You also can see a backplot of the Gcode by clicking Show tool path.

Attached you'll see some screenshots of the whole procedure.

Thanks for reading that long text.

Richard


Learning CNC - rails/carriages and frame design question

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Dear all,

newbie here trying to build a cnc. I've been reading up for the past several weeks, but as I'm putting together a design I have a few questions I can't find an answer to. My goal is learning, machine won't be working 24/7 or need high precision, will be primarily cutting 1/2 wood and plastic and if possible do some little engraving of aluminum. Table should be about 3"x2". Budget is ~$500 if possible at all. I have a dremel I intend to start with. Speed isn't an issue at this point, in fact I'd rather start slow with "bad" parts and replace them as I go so that I can actually observe the difference they make. I'm no mechanical engineer, but I'm not afraid to tinker and study so feel free to pass on links for me to read on.

As far as options go these are the ones I found, please let me know if I miss any:

- aluminum profiles with special v cats that fit v bearings . seem standard on all machines on openbuilds.com
- 45deg angled aluminum profile with skate bearings, probably most common solution in MDF/cheap builds
- unsupported rods with SBR bearings, either open or closed , mostly for Y axies, x and z seem to use closed ones for the most (for some reason I never saw anybody using the round ones, even tho they are for sale on amazon)
- supported linear round rails with open or closed SBRs
- flat rails with flat bearings, seems top of the line/pricey hwin stuff

am I missing any option?

So here's my questions:

Here's my questions:

1. why are homemade skate bearings carriages more common at 45deg than orthogonal? do they offer more support? better distribute the weight? I'd like to avoid them because attaching the 45deg rail is quite a bit of a pain (at least to do solidly filling the inside with a properly 45deg cut wood)

2. some designs have the gantry fall on the rails/bearings, others have a little L/extension with the rails/bearings orthogonal to the gantry arms and the gantry connected underneath, like in the Joe 2006 CNC. Is one solution better than the other? Is it better to avoid putting the weight of the bridge straight on the rails? Does it actually help to connect the gantry underneath in terms of stiffness even tho that means raising the bed and attaching to the table with 4 feet only?

3. some design with skate bearings carriages have only one carriage on the Y axies while others have two, one above and the other below the side panel. Are two substantially better than one in terms of stability? (two carriages are standard on X & Z). Same goes for support rods/linear bearings, some have two like the Joe CNC I used an inspiration, but many others only have one.

I need to figure out exactly the costs, but right now making orthogonal skate bearing carriages attached horizontally and connect the gantry underneath the table is my favorite option. Should I prefer something else? Here's a pic of what I'm thinking, just images than instead of the two rods I'll have to profiles of aluminum and 4-skateberaings orthogonal carriages (either one or two of them depending on question above):



That said, I'also love to hear comments on how that compares to this in terms of rails (the classic 45deg):



thank you in advance for your patience and input and I'll go make another thread about threaded rods and leadscrews.

you all take care,

Spike

Learning CNC - threaded rods and lead screws

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Dear all,

per my other thread, newbie here trying to build a first CNC for learning purposes, which means I'm actually inclined to build something less good and then upgrade it to get a sense for the improvements. However money is tight so I'd rather avoid doing something completely stupid. Build is for a cheap cnc 3"x2" cutting some wood and plastic, maybe aluminum but from other posts this seems maybe unreasonable. Speed isn't too much of an issue.

I've read quite a bit about threaded rods and lead screws. First off, I admit I'm still confused about all the different attributes of lead screws, I've seen prices all over the place. I understand it's down to tolerances and precisions, but I can't quite understand how that affects a case like mine of a simple CNC to cut some wood and plastic at slow speeds to learn.

So far I got that:
- threaded rods aren't designed for linear motion and with much higher TPI the motors need to work a lot harder and move the load far slower
- this means that for example when cutting wood I may not get enough SFM and the wood burns
- also of course doing a cut takes ages
- motors may overheat?
- the rod's threads will wear a lot faster
- even a home-made anti backlash nut I'm not going to get a lot of precision (but again, maybe enough to make a simple sign?)
- rod is more likely to not be perfectly straight, maybe not noticeable by the eye, but enough to cause further imprecisions

anything else that's bad about using a threaded rod?

When it comes to leadscrews, I'm at a bit of a loss of what matters. I got the general idea that it solves the above problems, however:
- for such a simple machine, do I need more than a multiple starts? it seems that more starts = more precision, but also more load on the motor, is that the case?
- the pitch seems to be 2mm altho some links talk about 8mm, does such a thing exist or did they mean the lead (ie 2mm pitch x 4 starts)?
- is an 8mm lead screw good enough for this machine or would going bigger make a difference that's worth the added cost? say a 12mm lead screw.

I understand for many of these questions I could "do the maths", however the maths seems pretty complex and despite being willing to study I'm not going to take a degree in mechanical engineering so I'm hoping to get a ballpark/baseline from experienced people on the forum that have gone through this stage already. In fact, given the context, unless it's in the category of stupid mistakes really nor worth making, I'm kind of inclined to try a threaded rod and then upgrade, but I'll wait for comments, should be around $10 wasted.

thanks in advance for all the input,

Spike

1 phase 230v to VFD 3 phase 230V?

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Hello guys, new to the forum. So please forgive my newbie questions.
I have a Yaskawa VS mini that is going to drive a 0.4hp AC spindle. The problem is that I dont have 3 phase 230V in my garage, only 1 phase 230V.
Is there any possibilty to configure the VFD or maybe use a capacitor to get the desired 3 phase 230V which the VFD needs?

Need Help! Spindle speed control with breakout board on Optimum BF20L CNC conversion

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I am busy converting my Optimum BF20L Vario mill to CNC. I have finished the ball-screws and the other mechanical changes. I have done a lot of reading about the connections of the stepper motors for the X, Y and Z axis to their controllers and don't see much problems with those. My problem is that I cannot find clear details of how I must connect the variable speed control board of the spindle to the breakout board. Any help on this would help, especially if you have pictures of the connections on the BF20L's board. Any suggestions is also welcome. Thanks.

Need Help! what bit to use on engraving plastics

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I am brand new on this forum I am using a forest scientific three axis cnc router. it works fine on wood even aluminum but when I try to engrave acrylic or plexi glass the v bit gets gummed up and ruins my work,,any help would be appreciated . I am a HS wood shop teacher. Dhom@conroeisd.net

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