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Need Help! Wiring new motor ? Consew 3/4 hp

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My maxnc burnt up the motor so I ordered a consew 3/4 hp motor which seems to be popular for the taig guys. My old motors were both ac that just wire wired to an on/off switch and plugged in. I understand this one is DC and has a foot pedal. How does everyone eliminate the foot pedal and still adjust the speed? Would like a simple on/off switch (not software controlled) and a pot to adjust speed if i want to try with something other than aluminum.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks


First build - leadscrew selection and opinions

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This is my first build for a aluminum woodworking router. Its a good idea to use acme 1/2 .5 pitch hi-lead or its best to use 16mm diameter 8mm lead trapezoidal given its 60 kg of gantry?
I am using v-rollers on a 3/16 - 3/4'' angle, Gantry lateral is 3/4'' 6061 aluminium and extrusion is 160 - 80mm 6063 alu. (16kg). The motor I have bought are 435oz/in steppers.

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New Machine Build Mach3 Retrofit to 1989 CNC Lathe

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Hi all,

I'm looking for a little advice. I recently bought a 1989 Somab Transmab 400 CNC lathe in great condition for next to nothing. It has a Gamet power chuck, powered tail stock, Sauter 8 turret tool changer, swarf conveyor, 10kW spindle motor and came with 40 tool holders! It is controlled by an old Num 720 system which I'm looking to replace with a Mach3 setup.

Keeping it short and to the point, electronics currently consist of:

2 x Indramat TDM 3.2 AC servo drives
2 x Indramat MAC 090A AC servo motors
1 x Indramat KDV 1.3 power supply (100amp)
1 x Indramat KDA 3.2 spindle drive
1 x Indramat TBM 1.2 Bleeder
2 x litton G58LSLDBI encoders (not sure on spec)

I'm thinking I have the following potential options:

1. Keep AC power supply, servos, encoders and drives (no doubt analog - need Step2Linear). Mach3 via PP and breakout board? This would be easiest option if it was lucky enough to be that simple.

2. Keep AC power supply, replace drives with suitable AC step/dir units, keep servo motors, new encoders?

3. Removal ALL, use new servo motors, new step/dir drives, new encoders and power supply?

Machining of parts / modifications to fit new components is not a worry.

Which ever method you guys deem most suitable I then need to consider spindle speed / direction control through Mach3 (hopefully I can mate it up with the KDA spindle drive which I assume will be analog 0-10v), the Sauter 8 turret tool changer and numerous relays controlling the powered tail stock (on/off), coolant etc etc.

I have already converted our 3-axis Bridgeport Mill to Mach3 using CNCDrive DG4S drives, encoders, breakout board etc so I have an idea of whats involved. However I know this conversion will require most likely ALOT of work.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

Sanyo Denki P5 1000 watt brushless servo motor with brake (new old stock) 8 available.

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Sanyo Denki P5 1000 watt brushless servo motor with brake (new old stock) 8 available.

Sanyo Denki P5 Servo Motor, 1000 watt with brake. Will work with granite devices drivers

Motors are new and still in the bulk shipping box I received them in.

List Date: 10/26/2017

For more info, click here to view the original listing: Sanyo Denki P5 1000 watt brushless servo motor with brake (new old stock) 8 available.
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On Sale For: $100.00


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where to post

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no idea where to post question. i have a cnc drag style engraver i would like to replace drag point with motor for deeper engrave. any suggestion on motor and where to purchase. it needs to have small chuck for bit change out. would it be better to rig holder for foredom style engraver

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Problem 2017.10.19 madCAM update won't install

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I've tried downloading the installer 3 times, and restarting my machine, but every attempt to install this update results in the same error:



"The setup files are corrupted. Please obtain a new copy of the program."

madCAM update installer size: 20286KB

Rhino version:
Version 5 SR14 64-bit
(5.14.522.8390, 05/22/2017)

Windows 10 version: 1703


Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Leo

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Problem Aluminum anodizing - what am I doing wrong?

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First off, I have been doing Ti anodizing for years on knives and I am very familiar with that process.

I have some parts I am making that will require anodizing because they will need to be specific colors in order to differentiate them from one another. I started learning the aluminum process about three weeks ago by watching people on youtube do it with simple supplies and methods. I did a few tests of my own and realized the need for a good system. I contacted Caswell and bought the smallest anodizing kit they offer. There were a few things it did not include, but I got those things too.

I am using a 3 amp constant current power supply (bought from Caswell).

I have had everything running for 3 days and made multiple attempts, but my parts will not take dye when finished. So, I am guessing something isn't correct in the anodize.

The parts are about 5.85 sq. in. for surface area, so I simply rounded it to 6.

According to the 720 rule calculator, with a current density of 6, I should have my amps set to .25 and run 120 minutes.

So when I set the power supply, I turn my voltage knob all the way up, and amps all the way down. I hook everything up and turned my amps knob to about .25 and wait for 120 minutes.

It should be noted that all of the baths are brand new, just mixed this past weekend. I am doing SP degreaser (190-200°F), deoxidizer / desmut (100°F), and then anodize (75°F). All baths are mixed correctly as per instructions from Caswell. The parts are rinsed thoroughly between baths with distilled water, and then neutralized after coming out of anodize before going into dye. Dye is heated to 135°F.

So after my parts come out of dye, they look the same as they did when they went in. I did have a few that tunred slightly pink (using red dye), but no significant absorbtion. No dye taking at all, which leads me to believe no anodize film is growing, or at least not enough. I am using titanium wire, and I had a good connection as far as the leads coming off of the power supply, because the titanium wire anodized and turned purple. I have also checked resistance between the parts and the hanging wire and found zero ohms (a good connection). I have used both very small gauge aluminum wire and also Ti wire for hanging wire.

I have also checked amperage throughout all of this to be sure I actually had the amp reading that the power supply was telling me, and it is correct.

I thought I had a pretty good mechanical bond to my parts, but I am questioning that now. At first I was using a spring type connection in a hole with the hanging wire. Observations were that the part would start off at the required .3 amps, and the upper limit of voltage, around 15 volts. I noticed that the amperage would drop off to almost nothing at around 15 minutes into the anodize session.

So then I took a brass bolt and nut and sandwiched the hanging wire to the part. (I know brass should not be used but I could not find Titanium or aluminum fasteners locally.) This setup produced a solid .3 amps throughout the entire 2 hour anodize, and the voltage went from about 1.5 volts up to around 8.This, to me, tells me that my initial springing wire hanging techniques were probably not sufficient. But even after this, the parts still will not take dye.

The only thing I can think here is that the part is not growing a sufficient enough anodize layer, and there is nothing for the dye to soak into.

Please, any help would be appreciated. I am scratching my head here.

Will a BXA toolpost work in the Slant Pro?

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I was looking at the lathe add-ons on the TORMACH website, and noticed that the Tool Post is CXA size.
Darn it!
My Manual lathe uses BXA tool holders. JUST MY LUCK!!
I have a bunch of BXA tools that I could easily load into the Slant Pro, instead of being forced to buy all new CXA holders.
So, a question for the owners.
Would a BXA holder work instead of the CXA size?
Maybe by mounting it on a thick riser?


Cut Simulator Question

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Dan,

I have successfully run different tool and used cutting planes/regions for different tools. Appreciate your help getting over those learning humps and up the learning curve.



I have searched for this in the docs, but haven't found an answer to a question about the Cut Simulator.

Is there a way to change the point of view of the Cut Simulator beyond just that of a standard isometric view so you can see cuts done on the reverse of the model?

Thank You!

Bruce

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Newbie Power supply output contacts

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Hi,
I have recently got a new/used power supply for my machine. It looks like a nice improvement for my setup, however it's positive and negative contacts are not marked.
Model is ascom fr-48 1200W. Maybe some of you are using this PSU?

Is there any way I could identify which contact is + and - with a tester?



Or maybe you know at which contact manufacturers are usually placing the fuse?

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New Product Air Cooled Spindle DIY CNC Spindle Kit For Sale

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Air Cooled Spindle DIY CNC Spindle Kit

Air cooled spindle is widely used on basic cnc router and nesting cnc router machines. Air cooled means the spindle motor is cooled by air via an electric fan which is mounted on top end of the spindle. Unlike water cooled spindle, the air spindle no needs connect to a water cycle. Also due to this point, the air cooled spindle is better for cutting and milling than engraving jobs.
Normally the air cooled spindle kit is requested from these two purpose:
1) diy a cnc router
2) maintenance for a cnc router

Air cooled spindle brand we provide:
Changsheng(CS), HQD and all the other Chinese brands

Available Power:
3.5kw, 4.5kw, 6.0kw, 7kw

More details, please click here
Welcome your inquiry.


Need Help! Mitshubitshi FX10 System floppy

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Hi everyone.
I have one Mitshubitshi FX10 (not FX10K) Wire Edm Machine since at 1998. My language system Floppy is German (BRD-B19W031-A0).I need English-language System floppy. Have you got everyone this floppi disc? I was cloneing my German floppy disc. (see you enclosed file).If has everyone this floppy, send me clone image file?

770 with enclosure size/measurements

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Hello all,

Time for me to re-organise in anticipation of the new 770 coming.

Can someone please measure for me the outside width and depth of the 770 with full enclosure? The website gives different dimensions in different places!

Thank you

Material question: 431, 431 (X) or any other steel?

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Hello Engineers,

I have a deal for producing small sized gearwheels and moving parts for medical instruments. In this matter I look for a steel, which will fit better for that (strong, good corrosion resistance, no
admixtures, hippo allergic etc.) Heard that 431 is ok for that, but my steel supplier offered 431 X steel. Not sure what that X will mean for the whole process. Does anyone know that material? Or you may recommend other good ones?

NEED HELP with CNC

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Hi,i am a student at robotics and i need some help with a cnc machine.
For my desertation i need to model all my flexible cell with 1 abb robot and 2 cnc milling machine chiron fz15s.
but the problem is no cnc site gives you any cad or views to work with.
Does anybody know what can i do? where to find a cad,atleast a step for a cnc with 5 axis?
Thank you


Thunderlaser Nova 63 and big item

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I have a plywood item with 1200*1200 size , and I want to cut it using my Nova 63 with 1600*1000 work table.
So as you see, the width of work table smaller than the item, but I can put the item to the table without front panels with honey table.
I am already cutting 1500*1500 items without front panels using broaching openings, but only for 1600*1000 work table.
May be there is a procedure for broaching of fabric roll that I can use for my case?
Is there a procedure in order to cut it right ? Perhaps using laser red dot and dot scan of first point?
Should I сut the drawing in two pieces with this procedure?
Thanks in advance.

Please help.... "%" sign keeps showing up in code

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I have ran the same program now 10 consecutive times. Of the 10 times running 6 of those had "%" sign added randomly when machine is reading the code and not in one specific place which is really strange. I am stumped at this point on what it is. Any ideas ?
Thanks in advance

New Here CNC beginner looking for a router

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Hi there :) I hope this is the right forum for my question.

I'm looking to buy my first CNC router (3 or 4 axis) preferably in the range of 120 * 60 cm (24 * 47 inch) workspace and preferably 20 cm (8 inch) Z hight. My starting budget is 3000-4000 USD / EUR. I've been looking through some options from Chinese manufacturers, like the 6012 from Acctek, Omni or Quick, which all look pretty similar to me. But I'm a bit scared of all axis not being squared and leveled and other mechanical things that could give some serious head aches. Is that something to worry about with these machines? Electronics not being great, I've read about that but what about the mechanics? I must say that these machines look very decent and sturdy, with all heavy steel base and such.

I'm planning on routing wood or plastics most of the time, and maybe some aluminium or other soft metals. What about European and US machines in roughly the same price category? For what I've seen these are often smaller and made out of aluminium and with a lower Z-axis hight. And I guess they use better electronics. Is that correct? Can for example a High-Z S-1000 do roughly the same as a steel Chinese machine mentioned above, but with less workspace? Are they mechanically superior to the Chinese ones when talking about precision and axis being squared and leveled? Or is a steel base always preferabele to an aluminium base?

Just In Moving the Torus Pro into a new shop!

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Morning all,

When my Torus Pro was delivered in August of 2013, I didn't know when the next time I would be moving it and at that time, I did not care! Well, that time has come now. It has been quite a process not only working on my new shop but removing everything so that I can finally move the Torus Pro.

Novakon did a custom wiring job for me and extended all the cables 6' so that I can mount the electrical cabinet on my wall. Well, I got that beast all unplugged last night and separated from the machine. All I have left is the mechanical structure of the machine components and I am ready for the move.

Unfortunately, when I initially installed the machined, I had to lift the base with one (1) 2x4 and one (1) 4x4 (both sides of the base) which were bolted to the concrete floor. I did this because my engine hoist would not slide under the base with just the leveling feet. So, it was lifted almost six inches and stayed that way throughout the four (4) years. I do not want the same problem.

In my new location, I have much more room but I don't think it will be any different if I cannot get the engine hoist under the base. The only way I see this happening is if I lift the base with a pallet jack, slide the engine hoist under, remove engine hoist and lower the base/mill with the pallet jack.


It's a rare opportunity to be at this stage and there are a number of modifications I have been wanting to do. Now is the time to do them, from new paint, maintenance, replacement of bolts ( thread engagement issues )etc...Heck I might take everything apart and put the machine back together piece by piece.

Perhaps I'll need to be more patient and creative. Looking for input ;)

Regards all,

-Jason


Newbie Planning to start with 6040

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Hello!

First one note:

I do not really NEED a router. But i want one for just playing around with it and producing parts for house decoration and rc model aircrafts. This means: Mostly wood, maybe some acrylic and other plastic, rarely soft metal (sheets) should be worked on. Reliability of the machine is not critical. If something goes wrong i should be able to replace mechanical and/or electronic parts by myself as those chinese 6040 mainly use standard components that are widely available.

But: Which version should i buy?

I live in germany. Here on ebay are dozens of sellers (mostly belonging to a single chinese company) that have storage in germany (no vat on delivery). Mechanically the machines look identical. But they are delivered with different spindles and controllers. I think for my usage the 800W spindle should be strong enough.

I have read the huge 6040 thread in this forum but i am still confused about the controllers. Most links in older posts in this thread do not work anymore as "carving cnc" is not "omnio cnc" with a new website (and new and slightly different machines). Omnio routers are too expensive for my plan (as they are delivered from china and i have to add e.g. 19% vat to the price).

I know that the control boxes tend to fail. But maybe i have luck and it works "out of the box". If not i have to change the electronic. But if the delivered control box works i want to use it - at least for some time.

If i purchase a kit with a parallel port i should be able to add any motion controller (like smoothieboard) without problems. Directly attached to my computer (with parallel port) it should work with mach3 and emc2 (i do not know which software i want to use).

If i buy a set with usb control box i need a special driver - hopefully delivered by the seller - to enable mach3 to drive the machine. No chance to use EMC2 in this case. And no chance to add something like smothieboard.

I think the usb control boxes contain an arduino (or something simular) that generates the stepper pulse.

Question: Is it possible to change a chinese usb control box to parallel? Is it possible to directly access the stepper EN/DIR/PULSE pins? Maybe connectors/cables between the usb logic and the stepper drivers?

Second question: Are there differences in the quality of the control box that are "visible" from outside? I think usb control boxes are newer developments?

There is at least one box offered that has a connection to the inverter to drive the spindle. There is a knob that can be used to set the spindle speed "manually" or "pc".
Type A offer:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/1500W-6040-C...cj9eAMIgY4kmRg

Another (black) box has 2 switches for pump and vfd. I am not sure if this box is capable of controlling the spindle with mach3.
Type B offer:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/NEW-3-Axes-M...8AAOSwpONZS5Pr

Another (blue) box with parallel port does not contain an inverter for the spindle. The inverter is a separate box.
Type C offer:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Router-Engra...AAAOSw5UZY-Z5k

Yet another beige/grey box only has a power switch, emergency halt and a display with some switches for the spindle. And parallel port. Those seem to be the cheapest offers. I think to control the spindle from mach3 with this controllers i have to add some electronics and connect the parallel port with the inverter?
Type D offer:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/1-5KW-CNC-Ro...IAAOSwR29ZECkB

Which one to choose?

Best regards, Udo

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