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Rhino Sketch to SolidWorks

August 1, 2015, 2:14 am
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Hi All, just checking if anyone has had experience with importing Rhino sketches into Solidworks. I have a Romer 6 axis digitising arm that I run directly in Rhino and even though I do my surface modelling in Rhino, I prefer to do my engineering stuff (solid modelling) in SolidWorks. My normal work flow is as follows: I do my finished base sketches in Rhino then do a save as to another file and make this a very simple file with one layer only as a sketch (not a surface nor a solid) and I generally stay with lines, circles and arcs and stay away from splines where possible so there is less translation to be done. I believe that the earlier in the process the import/export is done the better. I do the import into SW using IGES format.

So that is my process and it works but has several draw backs although not major ones. The imported stuff ends up as a long list of "imported curves" so then I have to do a sketch and use convert entities on every single "imported curve" to re-do them. Also all the circles end up as 2 half circles so I have to redraw them all. I can live with these but is there a better way? Is there someone who does this kind of thing regularly and has a more efficient way? Another format instead of IGES maybe? Supposedly SW will accept 3dm files (Rhino) but when I tried to import the sketch it said something about a lack of surface/solid data. Next I tried doing a straight extrude in Rhino to make it into a solid just for the sake of the import into SW but I got the same message.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I've posted this in the SolidWorks section as well as I can't see a way to post in both with one post so (moderators) please modify if required. Thanks

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Need Help! FS310i with Alpha i

August 1, 2015, 3:36 am
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Dear Sirs

We have Makino HMC and when Rapid rate override is kept at 50% then error SV 0409 X detect abnormal torque appears

a) We have cleaned Linear glass scale to ensure proper feedback, we also tried bypassing X axis scale

b) X axis ballscrew and slide look OK, grease lubrication is intact, we are able to rotate X axis ballscrew by hand, dont find any mechanical obstruction as such

c) X axis motor meggered and winding resistance quite ok and balanced

d) No dirt found on motor power and feedback cables

e) Finally when we reduced servo loop gain from 5500 to 3000, velocity gain from 253 to 155 then OK at 50% but error 409 at 100% rapid rate

f) There is one more observation that error appears mostly while moving in positive direction not much in negative direction

Please revert

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Newbie best drill bit

August 1, 2015, 3:39 am
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G'morning all
I'm looking to drill 5/64" holes into 3/8" thin wall stainless steel tubing, I picked up a couple of DeWalt Titanium Split Point bits. The way I have it set up is with the bit all the way up in the chuck so only about an inch is coming out of it. I need advice on the best type of bit for the job as mine are basically just polishing the surface.
Thanks
Gary

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RedSail X700 60w not cutting, wrong power supply?

August 1, 2015, 4:26 am
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Hi guys,

Recently received my X700 60w machine from eBay, shipped out of Ontario California... to my dismay it is actually a 50w tube with "60w" peak written on it.

This laser cannot cut worth a damn. I mean, it just doesn't cut. It can etch all day long no problem... but when it is set to cut, at 100% power, 100% laser through power, and 5mm/s it can barely put a dent in the wood.

My gut tells me it is the power supply unit. There is a cheap label on it saying it is 110v, but the leads going into the unit make me think it is 220v because of how they are labeled. Anyone have any recommendations????? I am so lost. I must this machine with the purpose of cutting thin acrylic and thin wood... and I cannot even put a dent in the materials.

I also am working with the vendor on some type of reimbursement via eBay for clearly labeling this machine as a true 60w laser...

Edit: There is no external switch to change voltage either.

Pictures attached.

Thanks!

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Need Help! Error in Sodik Wire EDM

August 1, 2015, 5:08 am
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Hello,
I have a problem with my sodick wire cut AQ300L I am getting an error message E00189 tension zero setting error. Please kindly advice how to solve this problem.
Thank you.



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Problem 1998 Hardine Conquest 700 vmc, ATC, tool and part probe

August 1, 2015, 9:23 am
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I just recently picked up a Conquest 700, from a knife making company which had bought the machine new. i bought it knowing it has an issue with the ATC, and the price reflected that.

The issue as they described it is that after a tool change the arm would return home then as soon as it returned home it would kick out a few degrees and alarm out.

I haven't taken delivery of the machine yet, I am just try to get a head start on finding the problem

hopefully find someone that knows these machines that might be able to point me in the right way
would also like to hear any other thoughts on this machine from people that have experience with them good or bad

issue 2
this mill had tool and part probing as a factory option, i was told that they tried to add a probe a few years back and could not get it to work, is there a way to add it?

hardine in general doesn't have a big presents in my area, so the techs while very capable where not familiar with these mills

Thanks
Chris

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Need Help! Metrol Tool Setter - Fanuc oi-mc

August 1, 2015, 9:29 am
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dynamic data

August 1, 2015, 9:55 am
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During SC9 simulation, is possible to view real time values such as feed and speed information? All that feed rate data in the pull down should be visible during simulation.
Yea, the program Item values are displayed in the left column, but they need to be expanded individually to observe the working process and it is cumbersome to view real time.
It sure would be nice to have dockable console to display all dynamic parameters during the simulation. Just saying.

-uman

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FTV 2 Lagun mill gets treadmill motor replacement.

August 1, 2015, 1:12 pm
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I am in the process of installing a 2.25 hp treadmill motor on my Lagun mill. The reason is these Lagun motors are too expensive and to get one rewound is expensive also. I bought a treadmill for 55.00, two pulleys, 90.00, two T nut straps and am putting them together. I have powered 4 of my machines with treadmill motors and controllers and haven't had a problem yet. Here are some pictures. The reason that I am doing it this way is simplicity, I am using the original treadmill mount, don't have to fabricate one, wouldn't know where to put it anyway. I still retain the high and low rpm band of the original mill, variable speed belt drive, and also variable speed of the treadmill motor and it also has reverse. Any comments are welcome, Robert Brown- machining fool

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Rant What they don't tell you!!

August 1, 2015, 4:45 pm
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It should be obvious from the advertizing brochures from many of the CNC machine factories that many of them produce units that are variations on the same pattern. The available options, build materials, colours may be different, but the designs are standardized. In searching for a machine you should check on sites like Alibaba on their record of countries to which they have exported. In North America, ask for UL/CSA certificates (with the correct UL numbers - check the UL searchable directory) and photos of UL/CSA parts and wiring (the UL # will be easy to find using Google and should be company specific. Ask the UL if you have doubts, they will do a field inspection out of the Taiwan office). Ask if the factory has both electrical and mechanical engineers on site and where did they obtained their training. If you get an excuse or avoidance, then they do not have such people. Can their parts store find parts with UL/CSA certification (readily available on English and Chinese market places), if not they are used to selling in the domestic market and to countries accepting CE certification. Beware fake CE marks! CE is not a safety mark but a certification of a design process. What additional wiring standards do they follow for export to your country. NEC, CEC, IEC, British, German codes. Check these online or be prepared to rewire the machine yourself. If they want to trade internationally, the factory must know simple things like the wiring colour codes (recently added to this forum) for your country. This is their responsibility not yours. If they fail to comply, complain to the Chinese embassy and suggest that the factory cease exports and focus of their domestic market.

Does the factory know how to connect your components to their components. Can they follow simple circuit diagrams and English instructions, including those from the manufacturer? Can they give correct technical answers to questions that you ask, or just avoidances limiting their liability? If all of the above questions are not answered satisfactorily, the chances are that you are not dealing with a true manufacturer, but an assembly plant that uses untrained labour to assemble machines to a design pattern.

Do they offer a refund on parts that must be replaced and returned to the factory? Those parts that you have paid for cannot be sold or given away by law, but must be recycled locally at a loss. Did you put penalty clauses in the contract to ensure that the machine built to your specification is built and delivered on time. The first month should be at 5% interest, the following months at 2%/mo on the total cost of the machine. Any changes must be agreed to in writing.

The sales person may claim good proficiency in English and an understanding of the technology of such machines. Sadly, most Chinese sales staff do not speak English and have little technical understanding. They use translation software to obtain a general message, Even though they say that they understand, the sales person my come back to you with many questions on separate occasions about the same topic. Be prepared to make drawings to help your explanations. Look for the 'story board' that I posted on this forum to keep track of changes made by both parties after the initial RFQ. If you send any pdf files, they should not be image files as their translation software may not have the ability to do character recognition. Save ALL correspondence. Lastly, make sure that you are getting the machine that you want, not the machine that they want to sell you.

Finally, the factory may not tell you many things that you need to know about how they build the machine. Forget the boasts about quality and construction materials and focus on the format/configuration of the machine, the control box and the table. You must ask very specific questions of them to make sure that you get the machine that you agree to buy.

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Aluminum Sheet Metal Flat Pattern RFQ

August 1, 2015, 7:31 pm
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Hello,
I'm looking for quotes on the following part in 10pcs, 20pcs, and 50pcs. Dimensions are just for reference. Actual drawing will be supplied upon winning the bid. Material is .0625" 6061 aluminum. Would be a good waterjet/laser job. Will be a reoccurring job.

Please send all RFQ's thru PM

Thanks

Capture.JPG

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Clicks one way moves the other

August 1, 2015, 8:03 pm
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So my stepper motor just stoped moving one way and just make clicking sound but moves the other way fine. Is it dead?

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Dissolve a Broken Drill Bit with Grocery Store Supplies

August 1, 2015, 8:57 pm
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In the video I show how to dissolve away a broken high speed drill bit with products from the local grocery store. It's a great technique for nonferrous parts like brass and I'm told aluminum (6061). Of course experiment with your particular application.

Captions are available on the video. The video is less than 2 minutes.



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News KL3 Testing is complete

August 1, 2015, 9:04 pm
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Getting close to a production run of the KL3 CNC Router. The details can be seen at BobsCNC

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Newbie Benchtop Lathe Conversion Project, A few Glitches

August 1, 2015, 11:24 pm
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Hi Folks

I have been a member here for some years but only just recently started getting into some CNC build projects of my own.
I have a lathe conversion project and a cnc router/ mill project underway.

The topic of my post here is the Lathe conversion.

The lathe in question is a Chinese HD250 Lathe (250x550), I believe I is the same as/ similar to the American Lathemaster HD250.
I have had the lathe for a while but early on I broke some of the mechanism on the change gears for the leadscrew.
One can possibly live without the ability to thread on the lathe but not to be able to autofeed was not an option for me.
For a year or so I have been using a 290OzIn Nema 23 stepper driving 20 to 40t tooth geared belt reduction onto the leadscrew and driven by a pulse/direction generator and this has been very successful.

Just this weekend I have been starting with a full CNC conversion that I have been planning and gather parts for some time.
The CNC is driven by LinuxCNC via a Chinese DB25-1205 Parallel Port Interface.
I have been successful in reading spindle speed with a Melexis 90217 Hall effect sensor counting teeth and in automating the Z axis on the original leadscrew but I seem to be having some glitches where I can hear the motor 'pulse' or 'shudder' and I am loosing steps.
The driver is a Chinese FMD2740A running at 48V. I have even removed the motor from the lathe to take mechanical load out of the equation.
All of the wiring is prototype and not shielded at the moment. Is it possible/ likely that I am losing pulses due to un shielded cables between the interface and driver or driver and motor?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Regards

Bruce

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Need Help! Trying to modify a generic post for a kia 15 lms

August 1, 2015, 11:32 pm
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I working on a KIA lathe with sub spindle and c axis. It has a fanuc OiTB control. I'm trying to modify the generic post to output code the way I'm used to but I'm banging my head against the wall.

Here is what I want to see.

N1 G0 G18 G40 G80 M40 Safety Line with N1
(Tool Description)
(Descripion / Comment)
G30 U0 W0 Turret Home
G28 G59 BO Sub Retract / Home
T0101
M54 G96 G99(M55) Spindle select, constant spindle speed, feed per rev
G50 S4500 Max spindle speed
M3 S500
G54 Z.1 X0 /M8 Rapid to first position and turn on coolant with block delete

Machine something cool

G30 U0 W0
M01

N2 G0 G18 G40 G80 M40 Safety Line with N2
etc
etc
etc


I've got the first 6 lines working....I think.


Can someone help me with the rest?

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Grizzly G0704 clamping kit

August 2, 2015, 3:53 am
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Hello, I read in the forum but didn;t understand quite well what size of clamping kit should buy.

Originally Posted by Wmacky1
Hoss, Your G0704 site shows 2 possible Clamp down kits and list them as 1/2" in the drop down menu. One link does go to a 1/2" set. and the other link goes to a 3/8" set?

I think early on in the closed thread, you stated that 1/2" wouldn't work, and that 3/8" would be closer.

I'm ready to buy a clamp kit and hope you could clarify what size works best with the G0704 T slots? Thanks!



they both should work, definitely the LMS.
both have 1/2 inch wide t-nuts and 3/8 bolts.
LMS list their t-nut dimensions so I know they're ok, the grizzly should fit.
Hoss

Can you tell me which one from this list is fine :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=clamping+kit+milling&_sop=12

Thanks.



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Australia New here and in the CNC field

August 2, 2015, 5:14 am
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G'day I'm Rod from Perth WA. I've just discovered this site and what a mind blowing and bewildering site it is. I'm about to venture into the CNC routering for wood world for home use. To date the only machine I've seen is the Geetech iCarver 1520 at Beyond Tools in Malaga and watching machines on Youtube. I think I would like something with a bed size around the 900mm x 600mm.... but then. Any advise will be appreciated. Thanks in advance Rod

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Short Collet Extention??

August 2, 2015, 6:04 am
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Greetings. :cheers:

I have a Chinese 1218 router with a 3.7kw aircooled spindle which uses ER-25 collets and nut. In addition I use a dust collector.

Here is the situation:
The dust hood with bristles that attaches to the spindle is quite deep. Mostly I use 32mm v-carving bits to do my work. These bits don't extend too far out of the collet. When I carve close to 20mm deep the dust hood gets very close to my work and the bristles become very compressed. I fear that this extra pressure on the z-axis (also on x and y i guess) will cause premature wear and tear on the machine. I have looked at collet extention bars, but most of them are very long. I don't have that much travel on Z. Ideally I would like to bring my tool down by 10-15mm only.

Here is the question:
Can someone recommend a solution for me? Are there extentions that are so short? Or...Do "long" ER-25 collets and nuts exist? Or...should I modify the dust hood by cutting it shallower and glue on new bristles?

Here is a picture of the setup. You can see the 32mm 120 degree bit. You can't really see where the tip of the bit ends because of the angle of the camera....it is at around the 7.8cm mark.


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Need Help! Lost zero parameters on Fanuc Oi-mate MD

August 2, 2015, 6:39 am
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Hi all, We are in the desperate need of help. We bought a VMC a while ago, before we bought it we checked it all and everything was perfect, machine was in storage for 7 months as we haven't had a workshop ready. We finally plugged it in yesterday and the surprise. We got a DS 0300 Alarm on the controller. Looked like machine lost its zero parameters. Trouble is that in the MDI settings we changed some values from 0 to 1 and the error disappeared but because for transportation and storage spindle was secured to the table we don't know where the original Zero was.

Is there any way to restore previous zero parameters. We obviously need to get it right as wrong set up on the Z will cause crash with ATC.

Please help what to look for

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