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Advice on what tool bits to buy to get started...

February 5, 2014, 10:21 am
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Hi,

I have a cnc machine and hoping to have it up and running soon(3 axis, but will be adding a rotary 4th axis down the line). Just wanted to know what people would recommend for cutting bits to get started with. I would be mainly using it for wood, possibly aluminum down the line.

What sizes/shapes etc...

I'm located in Canada, links to suppliers with reasonable shipping to canada appreciated.
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Newbie Suggestions for cutting wood plugs?

February 5, 2014, 10:29 am
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Hi there,

We are fairly new to this forum and new to the world of CNC, we are looking to manufacture as many things as possible on our machine to help cut labour costs, one of these things are solid wood (oak, maple, hickory etc...) plugs...1" dia. by 3/4 thick, just looking for suggestions on which bits are the most efficient to use for this operation? 3/8 hogger would be way too much waste, and anything too small might require a lot of plunging?

thanks
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PM-30MV or G0704 for CNC Conversion

February 5, 2014, 10:44 am
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I am currently looking to upgrade my X2 clone (MicroMark) that has been converted to CNC. It's just too small for what I want to do. When I converted it, I bought all the electronics and motors necessary for a bigger mill, so I already have almost everything I need for a conversion (controller, motors, etc). I use 570 oz/in steppers, 5060D drivers, etc.

I was originally planning on the G0704 based on how much documentation there is on it. But the more I started looking, the PM-30MV seems like a better mill. It now uses the KB Electronics speed control board, has a bigger motor than the G0704 (a common upgrade/complaint it seems), and the price isn't that much more.

I mostly do alumunum, and really only use my mill for fun. I don't need insane accuracy/precision, or need to cut exotic materials. But, I also want to make a wise investment and not regret buying the wrong mill either. My shop is also relatively small, so the 30MV is about as big as I could go (I would probably not even get the longer table, because it takes up more room, and I don't need that much x travel).

I bought Hoss' DVD like everyone else, and it looks like MOST everything would translate to the PM-30MV. But at the same time, I don't want to go on a wild good chase trying to shoe-horn everything into a different mill. I was planning on buying the C7 ballscrews from automation technologies, and using my X2 to mill all the other parts. Any thoughts? Is the PM-30MV really worth the extra few hundred?
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Need Help in Purchasing new CNC Machine

February 5, 2014, 11:02 am
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Greetings everyone,

I was wondering if anyone could help me out. We are a small business in Texas that specializes in cabinetry. We are slowly growing and are now prepared to tap into the CNC world to offer custom carvings and possibly some sign making. Being that we do not have any experience in this field, we are looking for suggestions on good companies that offer good machines, preferrably made in the USA (for support purposes mainly) and offer a good transition with an "easy-to-use" dynamic. Obviously the effort determines the learning, which I have no problems in putting in the effort. Since it is our first machine purchase, we want a good deal, meaning something not too pricy but good (excellence at a fair price). Although I am sure you get what you pay for, I am confident that this forum has experienced professionals with a great amount of wisdom. Our size limitations are a working area of 4'x4'.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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BerryMod on Tormach ATC

February 5, 2014, 11:03 am
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Hi Guys, I have had my new PCNC 1100 for a few months and am having so much fun with it! However I can’t help myself when I see something that could be greatly improve, to fix it. That is most defiantly the case with the Tormach ATC design. The problem stems from the excessive backlash / play in the tool carousel. First off the attachment of the tray hub to geared motor shaft is held on with two set screws that are supposed to lock into the keyway. The correct method would be to have a key lock the hub to the shaft instead of the set-screws. The way they designed the hub would have made that difficult and for that reason I am guessing they figured the set-screw would be good enough. The problem is that when the tray is loaded it carries a considerable amount of weight. That coupled with the speed when indexing the tool puts too much force on the set screws. The result is a loose connection between the shaft and hub adding to misalignment. This is not something one will see right away however over time on the ATC it will rear its ugly head. My fix for this was to machine a #7 drill size pin on the end of a ¼-20 7/8 long set screw to pin the whole thing together (See picture). The next item to fix was the nylon screws they use to mount the steel and plastic forks to the aluminum plate, very bad! Again with the weight of even a single tool say a large floating tap head will sooner or later loosen the nylon screws. Even if you tighten the nylon screws Tormach uses to the point of near stripping the threads it will still be loose!! I liked the idea of the nylon brake away protection these screws provide when something goes very wrong however it just does not work the way they designed it. My solution for this was to precisely ream all holes in the aluminum plate and forks both steel and plastic to .249” to match shoulder screws. Than use plastic shoulder screws (See picture) for mounting the forks to the aluminum plate. The main reason this works so well is now I have a close tolerance ¼” solid nylon shaft provided by the shoulder bolts working to resist the sheer forces of the tools when the tray is indexing (rotating). I used knurled 10-24 thumb screws (the size fastener required for the shoulder screws) to secure the forks in place (See picture). The reasons I like these thumb screws is because it has a built in large washer affect bearing surface and about 3/8” of thread engagement. I believe that the small neck of the solid ¼” shaft to 10-24 threads of the shoulder bolt will provide a braking point when something goes wrong. I am happy to say that since my modification it has worked perfectly, so this idea has not been tested to failure. The other nice thing about the thumb screw is the ease of checking tightness. The gear motor provides just the right amount of backlash to allow for slight miss alignment. Having said that my ATC is now dead nuts on 100% of the time with many hundreds of tool changes. One thing to note is that I counter bored the outer most holes for the shoulder bolts about .050 to allow for added clearance for the spindle when it is in the drawbar up holding position. I used a 5/8” shoulder screw for the inner circle and 1/2” for the outer circle. I used two reamers .2405 then a final .2490 for the shoulder screw holes. Since I am taking the play out of these forks it is even more critical that there position on the aluminum plate be very accurate!!! My first inclination was to machine an alignment plate / fixture to hold everything in place while I ream the holes. Seeing that that is quite a bit of work I thought I would just try using the existing nylon screws to get the forks positioned on the aluminum plate then use small machinist clamps allowing me to remove one screw at a time to ream the hole (See picture). This proved to work OK however I did pay very close attention trying to make each setup equal. I am so happy with this result of this mod I just wanted to share it hoping you Guys might find it helpful as well.
Happy machining!
Werner Berry

McMaster Carr Part#:
93897A263 1/2" Shoulder Screw
93897A271 5/8" Shoulder Screw
2791A38 Reamer .0249
92741A130 Knurled Thumb Nut


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? Coolant Enclosure Questions ?

February 5, 2014, 11:26 am
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Howdy,
I have been very busy using the excellent search feature on this forum, and have read all the coolant pump and coolant enclosure threads I could find. I still have some fairly basic question. Sorry if this has been covered before. I am a fairly new reader here.

The factory coolant enclosure for the 1100 is almost 40" above the point where the mill bolts to the base.

For those of you with really energetic coolant pumps, how much coolant still gets out? How damp is the top of the electrical/controller box?

Or, how high should the enclosure be to keep almost all of it in?

What transparent, rigid, enclosure materials have y'all used for DIY enclosures? Plexi? Lexan? Other? What thickness?

Why choose one over the other? Is plexi considerably less expensive?

Does coolant attack plexi or lexan, and weaken it or make it cloudy after a while?

Does anyone know of a source for steel corner angle? These are made to hold the corner together where two flat partitian come together. I have found several aluminum ones.

Has anyone put a canister type filter inside their coolant reservoir, and hooked the inlet to their pump up to that? This would filter the swarf out, before it enters the pump and lines. It wouldn't need to be mounted, and could come out of the tank when the lid is removed. The logic here is that the submerged filter would be naturally flooded with coolant, and would cut down on the system losses from sucking coolant through the filter.

What design works best for the doors of a coolant enclosure. One big panel that slides down in to a channel? Hinged doors? What?

What mistakes should I avoid in making a coolant enclosure?

What features are a must have for an enclosure?

Thank you in advance for all your help!

kr
PS: in a few days I should have a set of DIY base drawings to share and get your design suggestions for.
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Need Help! turret turn reverse

February 5, 2014, 11:33 am
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Hi everybody.
I have an OKUMA LC 10 osp3000l.
yesterday i open turret for repair oil leakage. its repaired and there is no oil leakage now.
but there is a problem now.
turret turn reverse (CW) after repairing.
what should i do?
all of the part electrics and oil hose install correctly but turret still turn reverse (CW).
please help me.
excuse for my weak english talking.
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Job Opening 3rd Shift CNC Tool Preset Position in Whitsett NC

February 5, 2014, 12:20 pm
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Immediate opening for Tool Preset Dept. position in tool room. Preferred applicants should have prior experience in setting up tooling for CNC lathes and vertical mills. Will train on first shift before moving to third shift. Duties would also include working as Tool Crib attendant and Tool Sharpener. Must be very detail oriented and be reliable.

Please send resume to: bhoneycu@regoproducts.com
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Need Help! A20B-2100-0761

February 5, 2014, 12:48 pm
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436 Z axis: soft thermal (ovc) alarm?

February 5, 2014, 12:51 pm
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Hello? Guy,

Is there anyone could help me on this problem? I have Fanuc Series 21i-M. It was running great, but all the sudden it broke my tool and gave me this alarm.:(
I checked it on the manual and maitanence, but no luck. However, I got some info from the net, but not sure... Is there anyone had the same problem and solved it?
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Job Opening MFG engineer w/ mastercam in coastal FL

February 5, 2014, 1:02 pm
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MFG engineer in aerospace in NE FLA coast relo help provided.. to 80s
AS degree a plus a BS degree great

This position is focused on programming via MasterCam. MasterCam would be a requirement.
This position would also be involved with:
• Process planning (ME)
• First Article Inspection planning per AS9100/9102 (not completing the actual inspection)
• Process improvement
• CAD (NX6 / Catia V5) a plus
• Fabrication Tooling / Machine Shop Fixturing
• New product/process development

resume to bw@cadcamrecruiters.com with details please (where relo, job desired, $ etc)
ww.cadcamrecruiters.com
we also need many CNC folks in NC SC GA FLA

we are not on any affiliations or networks so resume stays with us and confidential
Bill Wright 704 541 1100 since 1981
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urgent

February 5, 2014, 1:11 pm
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desprat need electrical diagrams for a cincinnati sabre 500 vmc with ge fanuc o-mc controller
or any cincinnati with fanuc 0-mc
will pay all costs of printing and delivery

brett
adelaide
south australia
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Problem Post ? v25

February 5, 2014, 1:15 pm
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I have tried to ramp a pocket by ramping a profile then changing tool path direction. Al's afterdark said I could. Its the preferred strategy sans entry ramp; helical entry or plunge without entry hole. It has worked for me when the pocket is G01 but when geometry is G02/G03 my post wont generate any -Z. The toolpath generates ramped pocket but the post rapids toZ,R, feeds to Z,F maybe to Z0 and pockets geom at Z0 then rapids to clearance. Could someone helical pocket a kidney shape then post to see if there are any -Z motion. Haas 4ax vmc with Haas 4ax vmc post G17 helical enabled

Thanks Les
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Inexpensive vacuum pump

February 5, 2014, 1:37 pm
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I am building a cnc router parts pro 4'X8'. I would like to build a vacuum table as well. Now I know there are tons of posts about vacuum tables and pumps on here, and I've read most if them. My question that I haven't found an answer for is are there any decent vacuum pumps for under $500? Besides a shopvac. It won't need to run 40 hours per week, as my cnc business is a side gig. But I would like something to work well when I do need it. All the ones people recommend are in the thousands. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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4"x5.5" steel plate

February 5, 2014, 1:42 pm
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Hi could I please get a quote on this plate

I need 2 in 1/4" thick steel plate


4"x5.5"
1/4" thick
center hole - 86mm
4 holes - 15/32

Im not a designer but I made the pattern in the Emachine program and saved it as a dxf which is attached

Thanks
Attached Files
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Pulse equivalent

February 6, 2014, 9:51 am
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Hi hi have a cnc with 9060 table I'm wanting to know what the pulse equivalent settings are
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mazak FF-510 plc output problem

February 6, 2014, 10:10 am
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dear friends,

we have a mazak FF510 machine with fanuc 18i controller.
the problem we have is strange ;
as an example, when we check the output for a valve from plc ladder, we saw that all conditions for that output is ok but output is not active.

do you have any idea why this problem occurs.


thanks in advance for your all help
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Need Help! Everything seems OK but stepper motors dosent move after starting up

February 6, 2014, 11:31 am
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My F1 worked normally but after it has been standing for a while the stepper motore will not work. Everything else look to work OK. Anyone that can help?
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Problem JGRO First Cut - Advice Needed...

February 6, 2014, 11:33 am
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So - after a very long delay, I've finally finished my JGRO router, and have made some wood chips with some very good results.

I'm using:
* HobbyCnc Pro board with their 305 oz-in steppers
* 1/2" 10 TPI ACME screws/nuts - I'm using a little "liquid graphite" for lubrication.
* DumpsterCNC anti-backlash leadnuts
* HDPE – I used ¾” HDPE cutting board pieces for the adjustment blocks
* 1" Gas pipe for X & Y axis & 1/2 Gas pipe for Z. The plans called for 1” only on the Y axis
* 3 piece LoveJoy Couplers
* Barrel nuts etc. - NO tapping or screwing into any MDF parts.
* LinuxCNC Controller Software (was EMC2 when I started building...)
* VcarvePro - trial version
* Ryobi 1/4" laminate trimmer

After I finally got my head wrapped around the various stepper configs, coordinate systems and offsets, I was able to cut the "Bulls Head" demo from the VcarvePro SW.
Besides reminding me that I have to "surface" my bed surface, the V-carving showed some "chatter" - where it looked like the bit was bouncing a little as it went along.
I didn't loose any steps, and the areas that had a "final" pass performed (because they were deeper ?), came out very good.

I'm thinking that this might be one of the following potential problems:
* Even though I'm using the DumpsterCNC anti-backlash leadnuts - There still may be some in the system.
* The machine is not rigid enough, and really is bouncing...
* The laminate trimmer is underpowered, and the bit is being pushed through the material (3/4" MDF) faster than it is being cut.
* I'm trying to take off too much with each pass
* The router bit I'm using is not carbide - it is new, but I've used it in the CNC while I was adjusting it.

My first question is "what are your thoughts" on the cause of the chatter?
It seems from the build threads that regular (heavy) routers are being used by others - so I'd also like to know if the JGRO with the 305 oz-in steppers is capable of lifting a router.
Or - should I not even be having this problem... beacause the laminate trimmer should be adequate?

Thanks for any input...
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Another Bad Experience with Marchant Dice....

February 6, 2014, 11:43 am
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Hi Guys,

Just thought I would share my experiences with Marchant Dice..... No good I am afraid, and I will keep it factual.

June 2012 is when I made first contact with Kevin on a visit to their factory in Devon. Ordered my machine to aid in the manufacture of my Classic Mini Interiors. I was so excited to do the deal, left half the money in cash and looked forward to getting things delivered and underway. Unfortunately I had a breakdown in the autumn and lost contact with Kevin. Having spent several months putting my life back together remade contact again.

With renewed determination to get the business going again I was promised delivery in a 'couple of weeks' (July 2013). After several weeks had passed and the excuse after excuse of not being able to come and install the machine in Leicester I agreed with Kevin to go and pick up the machine. I agreed that the machine would be 'up and running' in Devon at the factory, I would take down my PC to install all the software and have a session on how to work the whole package.

To say I was disappointed when I got there was a bit of an understatement. My machine was still in all the shrink wrap apart from the 'head' that one of the staff had just finished assembling. I met with Kevin and James and explained that I was expecting the machine would be 'assembled' and 'running'. I was told not to worry and everything would be 'fine'. I asked if Kevin would install the software and again told that everything was straight forward and easy to do. So, having driven 215 miles to see them, left with some shrink wrapped parts and a couple of boxes. I also paid the rest of the balance in cash, but did keep the £240 installation charge as I had collected it.

I was told that I had everything but found out when I got home that I had not been given the controller. After several more excuses and another couple of weeks (apparently they had some supply problems with the controllers - ring any bells for anyone on here?) the control box turned up. Unfortunately missing the data link cable and also the power cable. Really not wishing to waste several more phone calls and empty promises, went to Maplin and purchased what I needed. £22 later, I thought I had everything I needed now to set the machine up. Installed Mach3 and found nothing was working. More phone calls to Kevin and I eventually got the file I needed for the machine. Got everything installed, purchased the cutters that I needed, I was told that I would have one included but true to form - missing. I then had to buy 2 spanners to install the cutter in the spindle collet, more items missing.

Still having problems getting the machine running I sent the PC down to Devon for James to get the software running. A couple of days later I was told that the spec of the machine wasn't 'good enough'. They sent the PC back having done nothing with it. Turns out I was 1/2 a mega bite short on the RAM. Not convinced this would make a huge difference to the simple profiles I need to cut? I was then told that Marchant Dice would only install the software for me and get it running if I purchased the PC from them. The excuse was that there was too many programmes on it. For them to 'clean' the PC and just install Mach3 was never offered as an option by them.

Right, I thought, ready to go. Just needed to install the Vcarvepro software and download some files to cut. No Vcarvepro. Phoned Kevin and James again to find out where it was. Was told that I took it from the first visit to Devon. Needless to say, and I am very organised with the filing of software discs, couldn't find it. No problem, the software was never registered so just needed to get the key as it will never have been registered. James promised to contact Vectric and sort it for me. After several promises from Kevin / James that he had contacted them, called Mark at Vectric myself. He didn't recall any conversation with Marchant Dice about my software. Kevin said that he had sent 200 emails to Vectric but I have to admit, think this is a great exaggeration..... Kevin was convinced that I took the software but strangely enough, no mention of it on the original delivery note.

The last contact I had with Kevin was a little over two weeks ago when I was told that he would 'pop in' on the way to an install in Liverpool. Needless to say that I have had no contact from him since, not even a quick call to see if the machine is running. His parting remit was 'Well, you had a bargain'.

I am just so frustrated with the whole experience with Marchant Dice, and I would put anyone off parting with thousands of pounds and expecting a great after sales service from my own personal experience. It is my view that I should have paid just that little bit more and dealt with someone who was better supplying me with what I required.

Jay - Driven Innovation Ltd
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