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Need Help! How do you download am NC program from a computer to a Hardinge VMC800 Machine Center

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Hello

My shop has a Hardinge VMC800II machining center with a Fanuc Series 0-MD Controller that we bought new 20 years ago. We have had some personnel changes since then and I have been tasked with figuring out how to down load new programs from a PC to this controller. The main part I'm unsure about is what buttons to push on the controller to have it ready to receive the program. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Best Regards
Frank


Need Help! LAYOUT DRAWING HL-4

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Hi everybody.
I need to move a Haas HL-4 1996 and I need the machine Layout Drawing.

Would anyone be nice enough to post a pictures of the drawing. Thank you!!!

Need Help! PMDX-122 and PMDX-411

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I recently 4 Stepperonline kits including: 4 1699oz. Closed loops motors with CL86Y drivers. I am using a PMDX-411 for my controller. It is attached to my PMDX-122 Breakout board. I am using Mach4 software (purchased hobby version). I am running individual power supplies for each motor and driver and a 5 volt power supply for the PMDX-122.

This is my third build and my largest. I have never used closed loop before, but with its accuracy and resolution, I thought it a good idea.

Here is my problem. I have hooked the four motors to the drivers and to the terminals on the BOB as X,Y,Z,A. In Mach4 I am slaving A with X. Two motors for the X Axis.
When I turn the system on and try jogging, everything works well except for Z. Z will spin one direction, but will create a fault when trying to spin the other direction.
Now if I remove lets say the A drive, everything works fine. I have tested every possible combinations, using different motors with different drivers etc. All with the same results.

Has anyone had any issue with this, I have contacted both Stepperonline and PMDX people, but I do not believe they are working through this pandemic.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Daryl

Corrupted Tool Offsets Older VF1 Positive or Negative?

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Greetings.
I have an older (1993) VF1. I had a small electrical problem with a blown tantalum capacitor (fixed) but now my cutter diameter and wear offset register has gone wild. There must have been a quick interruption of the memory power as my stored programs were all lost and the offset register had somehow entered some rather large numbers. Well, I got all of the numbers back to 0.000. The issue is that some of the 0.000's are + and some of them are -. This sets up all kinds of issues when manually entering dimeter and wear offsets. The 0.000's that are + work fine. The one's that are minus act in revers. add .0050 to one of the minus 0.000's and you get an offset of 999.9959. Not ,005. So my question is, how do I change the -0.000's to +0.000's?
Thanks in advance

Bruce Mowbray
Springville, PA USA

GREASE BLOCK FOR CNC PRECISION MATTHEWS PM-25MV

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Hi,

I Made a grease block for the new cnc PM-25MV, please look and my video, anyone would like to help me and my YouTube channel to grow please subscribe and click on the bell to see any of my new videos!
Thanks everyone for the help I gotten here




Artis-Jet - No Free Support on ArtisRip ver9

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Has anyone have an Artis-Jet UV Printer and tried to get any support? Been told to answer a basic question like “Why is it printing White after Colour” to be told I have to pay them $500 a year to get any questions answered or help?? The previous UV Printer I bought supported all my Questions ( sometimes silly ones ) for 3 years without any problem while less than a week Artis-Jet are saying the below question is too difficult to answer and I need to pay them $500 per year for the answer?

Do any other Brands offer no free support for their printers??
Like the question is pretty basic, somewhere there will be a dropdown or checkbox reversing the option to Print Colour first or after the White, does anyone use ArtisRip ver9 that can save me $500?

RZNC 501 controller issues

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Hi all,

been using the RZNC 501 controllers for 3 -4 years.

Every time i start the new cutting process, the system will automatically goes to SPD GRAD 7, even though during the processing menu, I set it to SPD GRAD 1, it will still runs at SPD GRAD 7 during the cutting process.


Another question i have: I am using ArtCam. But i cannot seems to set the speed of the milling process using the RZNC controller.
Example i set 5000rpm on my ARTCAM, but my RZNC 501 controller only seems to runs at the speed set on the RZNC controller. I can only manually set the speed using the RZNC controller during the milling process.

Thanks, hope you guys can help me in these issues.

Ivan

New Machine Build 150x100cm Steel frame router build

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After 4 months since I first thought about building my CNC router, here we go. I'm still at brainstorming/CAD phase so if you have any thoughts and ideas I would love to hear them.

Working surface will be 150x100cm and 18cm Z height (60"x40"x7"). I'm aiming at aroung 10m/min (400IPM) cutting speed (or more if I manage to solve the ballscrew whip problem).
I intend to cut hardwoods and some aluminium. Budget is around 3000€.

Since I have a welding workshop and have access to a milling machine I'll be making the router from steel. I'll mating surfaces and surfaces where I'll bolt linear rails will be machined.

I'm making the Y axis beams from 120x40mmx3mm tubing and I'll weld a strip of 30x15mm steel to have more meat for threading into. My idea is to make the router easily removable from the frame. I'll be bolting the Y beams to the frame with 4 bolts on each corner. Hopefully that will also give me enough room to shim the rails to be in the same plane and in a way disconnect the router from the frame so I'll have to worry less about the welding distortion in the frame. After the router is done I'll resurface the table and any discrepancy in the frame will be solved by that (I hope that is).

I'll probably use 25mm rails since I've got 25mm carriages for cheap.

I thought to use 1610mm ballscrews but since the price isn't that much higher I'll use 2010mm screws. That gives me around 1000rpm before I hit the critical speed in a fixed-supported system. And this is where I have a couple of questions for you guys.

Since the ballscrew is so efficient and almost "friction-less", does it really heat up that much during heavy use? I have no access to a router in a real world so I can't check for myself. The reason I'm asking is if the screw doesn't heat up significantly than it won't expand much and fixed-fixed mounting is possible and that give me 1500rpm before critical speed. Can you give me any feedback on this please.

Another idea I've found here on the forum is to make a spring actuated plastic support for the screw in the middle to prevent it sagging (I attached photos bellow).

I don't intend to hit critical speed but it would be good if I could make even faster machine although it isn't crucial for me.

For X axis beam I'll use 200x80x5mm tubing. In another thread someone mentioned I should use square tubing instead because the cutting force is pushing against the narrower part of the beam. That makes sense but using 200x200 tubing will eat up router space pretty fast. That made me experiment with Fusion360 simulation workspace.

I don't have any idea how high the cutting forces are but I've found on the forum someone mentioned 300N so I used that. In my static simulation where the Z axis is in the middle of X axis and it is at it'slowest point I've got around 20 microns of deflection. I was getting around 30 microns before I've added some diagonal bracing inside the 200x80 beam and side support for spindle mounting plate. (30 micron is 1 thou)

Is this "acceptable" deflecton or should I consider going with 200x200 tubing? At this point the gantry will be over 50kg (110lbs) so I'm afraid to add even more weight.

The Z axis is 25mm aluminum plate and for the spindle mounting plate I'll bend sheet metal around the spindle and bolt it to the plate to make it more rigid.

I found some hybrid NEMA34 8Nm motors (~1000oz/in) and I'll use 2 on the Y axis, one on X and maybe one NEMA 23 4Nm for Z axis since I'll use 1605 screw for it. On MYCNCUK forum I've found spreadsheet for calculating motor size and for 60kg/120lbs gantry I need ~4Nm or torque and since I'm using double 8Nm motors I think I'll have some headroom. (the calculation DID include acceleration load but it is hidden inside the spreadsheet formulas and I can't find what value for acceleration they've used)

I thought about connecting motor with a belt. That would allow me to make a 2:1 reduction since these motors only have 3Nm of torque at 1000rpm and almost 5Nm at 500rpm.

This is it for now. If you had enough patience to read all through this than thank you. If you have any questions/ideas feel free to share. Thanks again.

This is the stepper I intend to use: https://www.vallder.com/en/c/292/38/...hnical-details

Attached Images

New Leaf CBD Review

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New Leaf CBD Review: Currently, many cases of different diseases are known each year and are believed to be on the rise. Many of these diseases are hereditary and many others develop due to the bad life habits that the person acquires and that over time, becomes a disease. On the other hand, those who already have sick family members prefer to avoid a certain lifestyle and start taking care of themselves early.oliveleafbistro.com/new-leaf-cbd-review/

kondia b 1000

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hi
we have a kondia b1000 with fanuc om control .
Unfortunately, the machine backup battery goes off and the machine data was erased.
are anybody help me ?
we need backup and wirring diagram please.

Newbie My 3018 CNC Pro Project

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Hi Everyone.

This is my first post, I think it's in the right place, let me dive in and give the details....

tldr; skip to the end, I'm after some advice on doing a spindle upgrade. (Search for The big project)

I've recently purchased a 3018 Pro CNC as a hobby project. I'm doing this for a couple of reasons.

1. I love learning new things and being able to get in the door with CNC projects is a good step for me.
2. It's a good challenge to help stop me going stir crazy during this world virus lockdown (ok enough about that, I promise)

So, what machine did I get,


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's the 3018 Pro-m + 7W here's the specs

CNC Control board - Woodpecker 3.4 running GRBL 1.1f
Offline controller module to allow the CNC to be operated without a computer, using SD card to store the programming files
ER11 Collet set, with sizes up to 7mm, but I've only used the 3.175mm (1/8") at the moment, it's suited all my needs so far.
7000mW Laser module (I've not tried this yet, might do at a later stage, but not right now.

On getting the machine and setting it up, I have been impressed with the build quality and the construction, it feels solid and I've been learning loads from various youtube videos.

I've already started to modify the machine. Yep, this is why It's a hobby. My plan is to get it to be able to cut aluminium so that I can make precision brackets that look good.

The upgrades that I've done so far are as follows...

1. Upgraded the cable runs so that they are properly sheathed, this is to help protect the cabling and prevent cable snagging.
2. Added a Z-Probe. purchased from Banggood, Just needed to add a couple of Dupount connectors and plugged it in, worked straight away.
3. Stopped using the "offline controller" it's too basic for me.

Instead of the offline controler, I've decided to try something completely different. I can't afford Mach3/4 so decided to try the UGS Platform. This is running on a Raspberry PI 4 (4GB) with a 10" touchscreen, (the official pi touchscreen is to small for the software to be useful)
Using a computer rather than the offline controller affords several great opportunities.

1. I can make use of all the features of the WoodPecker board (Limit switchs and Z-Probe)
2. I can upload the G-code to the PI rather than having to mess about with SD Cards.
3. Having a decent screen for the G-code sender allows me much more convenient control of the machine and better feedback. I can see what the machine software is planning to do, and not having to trust my memory)
4. I can alter setting settings in the CNC.


My workflow from is going to be something along these lines....

1. initial design will be in my head, then scribbled on paper/doodled.
2. CAD will be done in Fusion 360 (I'm a newbie at that too. yep, I'm really jumping in at the deep end)
3. CAM will also be done in Fusion 360.
4. The output .nc will be uploaded to the PI
5. I'll load the stock, anchoring it with the cheap butterly clamps. (they work for now, I'm sure that I will upgrade them later)
6. Load the correct bit, and make sure it's done up tight.
7. set the 0 position for the machine. X&Y will be done manually, Z-Using the z-probe which I just installed
8. I'll load the .nc file
9. I'll double check everything is set right.
10. start the program and hope my tool doesn't snap.


I've got a load of upgrades lined up for my milling machine. As I already said, I've done some of them already

1. Upgrade the offline controller to a Raspberry PI (done)
2. better cable management (done)
3. z-probe (done)
4. Optical Limit switches - these are in the post and it will be a while before I have them installed.
5. Upgrade the 775 Spindle to a 500W Spindle (This is a big project)
6. Upgrade the Z-Axis from being 3d printed to full metal.



The big project that I need help with is the upgrading the 775 Spindle to the 500W Spindle.

What I'd like to do is have the UGS software still be able to control the spindle, but the 500W spindle will needs to be powered separately from the woodpecker board.

This is the spindle that I have https://www.banggood.com/Machifit-ER...r_warehouse=CN

The power supply has a POT for controlling the spindle speed, however I don't think that the output on the woodpecker board will be compatible.

To that end, I am thinking about getting a different power supply, I've found this one, which has a 0-10v input....
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32389962413.html

I'm not planning on doing this until have the Upgraded Z-Axis and can plug and play the new module as one.
I can also see that will need to make an enclosure for that power supply, looks like it's meant to go inside a box/cage so that fingers cannot get there.

What I'm wondering is if anyone has any experience hooking up a 500W Spindle to a woodpecker board?
I'm wondering if the output voltage from the spindle connector can be made compatible with the speed controller?
Do I need to get the Mach3 power supply or can this work with using the POT input instead?

Is there anything posted that will help me to get this part of the project done?

New sensor website launched

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I am pleased to announce the launch of The sensor shack, a new source of information for all things sensor related. The website covers many types of sensors in great detail including sensors for measuring, pressure, temeprature, load, torque and displacment. It includes illustrated explenations of how sensors work, typical sensor specifications, advantages, disfadctnts and application tips.

RZNC 501 controller issues

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0
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Hi all,

been using the RZNC 501 controllers for 3 -4 years.

Every time i start the new cutting process, the system will automatically goes to SPD GRAD 7, even though during the processing menu, I set it to SPD GRAD 1, it will still runs at SPD GRAD 7 during the cutting process.


Another question i have: I am using ArtCam. But i cannot seems to set the speed of the milling process using the RZNC controller.
Example i set 5000rpm on my ARTCAM, but my RZNC 501 controller only seems to runs at the speed set on the RZNC controller. I can only manually set the speed using the RZNC controller during the milling process.

Thanks, hope you guys can help me in these issues.

Ivan

kondia b 1000

$
0
0
hi
we have a kondia b1000 with fanuc om control .
Unfortunately, the machine backup battery goes off and the machine data was erased.
are anybody help me ?
we need backup and wirring diagram please.

Newbie My 3018 CNC Pro Project

$
0
0
Hi Everyone.

This is my first post, I think it's in the right place, let me dive in and give the details....

tldr; skip to the end, I'm after some advice on doing a spindle upgrade. (Search for The big project)

I've recently purchased a 3018 Pro CNC as a hobby project. I'm doing this for a couple of reasons.

1. I love learning new things and being able to get in the door with CNC projects is a good step for me.
2. It's a good challenge to help stop me going stir crazy during this world virus lockdown (ok enough about that, I promise)

So, what machine did I get,


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's the 3018 Pro-m + 7W here's the specs

CNC Control board - Woodpecker 3.4 running GRBL 1.1f
Offline controller module to allow the CNC to be operated without a computer, using SD card to store the programming files
ER11 Collet set, with sizes up to 7mm, but I've only used the 3.175mm (1/8") at the moment, it's suited all my needs so far.
7000mW Laser module (I've not tried this yet, might do at a later stage, but not right now.

On getting the machine and setting it up, I have been impressed with the build quality and the construction, it feels solid and I've been learning loads from various youtube videos.

I've already started to modify the machine. Yep, this is why It's a hobby. My plan is to get it to be able to cut aluminium so that I can make precision brackets that look good.

The upgrades that I've done so far are as follows...

1. Upgraded the cable runs so that they are properly sheathed, this is to help protect the cabling and prevent cable snagging.
2. Added a Z-Probe. purchased from Banggood, Just needed to add a couple of Dupount connectors and plugged it in, worked straight away.
3. Stopped using the "offline controller" it's too basic for me.

Instead of the offline controler, I've decided to try something completely different. I can't afford Mach3/4 so decided to try the UGS Platform. This is running on a Raspberry PI 4 (4GB) with a 10" touchscreen, (the official pi touchscreen is to small for the software to be useful)
Using a computer rather than the offline controller affords several great opportunities.

1. I can make use of all the features of the WoodPecker board (Limit switchs and Z-Probe)
2. I can upload the G-code to the PI rather than having to mess about with SD Cards.
3. Having a decent screen for the G-code sender allows me much more convenient control of the machine and better feedback. I can see what the machine software is planning to do, and not having to trust my memory)
4. I can alter setting settings in the CNC.


My workflow from is going to be something along these lines....

1. initial design will be in my head, then scribbled on paper/doodled.
2. CAD will be done in Fusion 360 (I'm a newbie at that too. yep, I'm really jumping in at the deep end)
3. CAM will also be done in Fusion 360.
4. The output .nc will be uploaded to the PI
5. I'll load the stock, anchoring it with the cheap butterly clamps. (they work for now, I'm sure that I will upgrade them later)
6. Load the correct bit, and make sure it's done up tight.
7. set the 0 position for the machine. X&Y will be done manually, Z-Using the z-probe which I just installed
8. I'll load the .nc file
9. I'll double check everything is set right.
10. start the program and hope my tool doesn't snap.


I've got a load of upgrades lined up for my milling machine. As I already said, I've done some of them already

1. Upgrade the offline controller to a Raspberry PI (done)
2. better cable management (done)
3. z-probe (done)
4. Optical Limit switches - these are in the post and it will be a while before I have them installed.
5. Upgrade the 775 Spindle to a 500W Spindle (This is a big project)
6. Upgrade the Z-Axis from being 3d printed to full metal.



The big project that I need help with is the upgrading the 775 Spindle to the 500W Spindle.

What I'd like to do is have the UGS software still be able to control the spindle, but the 500W spindle will needs to be powered separately from the woodpecker board.

This is the spindle that I have https://www.banggood.com/Machifit-ER...r_warehouse=CN

The power supply has a POT for controlling the spindle speed, however I don't think that the output on the woodpecker board will be compatible.

To that end, I am thinking about getting a different power supply, I've found this one, which has a 0-10v input....
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32389962413.html

I'm not planning on doing this until have the Upgraded Z-Axis and can plug and play the new module as one.
I can also see that will need to make an enclosure for that power supply, looks like it's meant to go inside a box/cage so that fingers cannot get there.

What I'm wondering is if anyone has any experience hooking up a 500W Spindle to a woodpecker board?
I'm wondering if the output voltage from the spindle connector can be made compatible with the speed controller?
Do I need to get the Mach3 power supply or can this work with using the POT input instead?

Is there anything posted that will help me to get this part of the project done?


Mc post processor

8-32 external threads g76 program help

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Hello. I am turning 5/16 OD 12L14 down to .166 dia. Then cutting 8-32 external threads. What speeds , feeds and how much material would I take per pass to avoid flexing the material? Have never cut threads this small.

troyke NC10 with collet chuck, with servo for fadal cnc

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I have an excess 4th axis rotary table, in northern california. it is a troyke NC10 with 5C collet chuck and has the servo and interface for a fadal cnc. It is a nice plug and play 4th for a fadal. Also, just the troyke and collet chuck are really nice if you want to convert it to manual. Troyke still supports this table. For sale, it weighs about 120 pounds where a significant chunk of the weight is the massive DC servo motor..

Spindle Motor for Chinese CNC

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Hello,

My name is Angel, I work for furniture art galley in Denver, Colorado. We are located in the Santa Fe Art District.
I recently had the spindle motor on my CNC machine burned out. Work with cutting metal and wood.

We were hoping to be able to find some vendors or this specific spindle in the U.S. as this is something we were hoping to get in the next few days.

The specs of the spindle are w/ model number:

GDK125-18-24Z/5.5
5.5KW 220V 19.0A
300-400Hz 18000-24000rpm

Thank you!

Need Help! Mach3 - Engraver - Axis won't stay calibrated

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Hey there all you cool cats and kittens.

Let's start this off by saying I have had no CNC experience until lockdown. I have had a 2030 engraver in the workshop for years and never touched it. I acquired it in a job lot on eBay, with a PC tower, but it has just been sat there collecting dust. Until now.
As I said I have had no experience and the learning curve has been steep. Figured out how to get the machine running/use Mach3 (after laying out £150 for the updated software), learnt CAM in Fusion, output some Gcode and cut my logo in a piece of ply. Proper well stoked so I was.
My problem now is all of the axis' won't stay calibrated and I have no idea what to do in order to try and fix it. I have been on the Mach support forum but things move at a snail's pace over there so thought I would try my luck here.

So my setup. I have a PC tower running Windows XP. I think it's 32bit and it has a parallel port (I don't know if its 5v but I would assume so as the engraver is covered in wood-dust so must have been running at some point). I have a T-D 3 axis controller with a JP-3163B board set to 1/8 step. The motors on the engraver are 57HD0401-15S.

Please let me know if you need any more information, or pictures, whatever.

Thanks,
Paul

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