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Need Help! Not Show Code expert

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Hi, i would like not appear the Code Expert when i generate the code G,
Whow i can do it this, in Mastercam X7.

Tahnks guys
sorry for my bad english


New Product Grizzly G0602 6 bolt Compound clamp kit

Need Help! Need help please.

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I am new to multi spindle and multi turret Okumas.

Problem is timing with p-codes i dont understand and this alarm
2463 Change timing G140/G141/G142

What i want to do is face and turn both spindles with one turret each upper left side and lower right side. Then let upper turret wait while i drill left spindle with lower turret. "this is due to drill length"
i am getting the alarm when trying to switch lower turret to the left side.

after drilling i want to continue with the parts upper turret left side, lower turret right side. please help me fix my errors.
machine is a LT3000 Twin turret twin spindle with osp P3000L control

program layed out with all upper turret first then lower turret



G13 (UPPER T)
G140 (MAIN S)
(OKUMA LT)
(RSL)
V20=0.000
(FACE)
()
P10
NAT01
T010101
G50 S2000
G97 S522 M3
G0 G95 X50. Z50. M8
X5.85 Z0.0
G96 S800 M3
G1 X-0.2 F0.008
Z0.025
G0 Z0.05
X7.
(ROUGH TURN)
X5.4862 Z0.054
G1 Z-0.232 F0.012
X5.5952
G3 X5.6507 Z-0.2435 L0.0393
G1 X5.726 Z-0.2812
X5.8126 Z-0.2562
G0 X5.826
Z0.054
X5.3462
G1 X5.2462
Z-0.232
X5.4862
X5.5728 Z-0.207
G0 X5.5862
Z0.054
X5.1062
G1 X5.0062
Z-0.232
X5.2462
X5.3328 Z-0.207
G0 X5.3462
Z0.054
X4.8662
G1 X4.7662
Z-0.232
X5.0062
X5.0928 Z-0.207
G0 X5.1062
Z0.054
X4.6262
G1 X4.5262
Z-0.0493
G3 X4.542 Z-0.0729 L0.0393
G1 X4.542 Z-0.232
X4.7662
X4.8528 Z-0.207
G0 X4.8662
Z0.054
X4.4882
G1 X4.3882
Z0.004
G3 X4.4437 Z-0.0075 L0.0393
G1 X4.519 Z-0.0452
G3 X4.5262 Z-0.0493 L0.0393
G1 X4.6128 Z-0.0243
G0 Z0.05
(FINISH TURN)
X4.3362 Z0.05
G1 Z0. F0.008
G3 X4.386 Z-0.0103 L0.0353
G1 X4.4614 Z-0.048
G3 X4.482 Z-0.0729 L0.0353
G1 X4.482 Z-0.236
X5.5432
G3 X5.593 Z-0.2463 L0.0353
G1 X5.6684 Z-0.284
G3 X5.689 Z-0.3089 L0.0353
G1 X5.690 Z-0.6843
X5.7317 Z-0.6957
X5.80 Z-0.6707
M9 M5
G0 X50. Z50.
()
(*********wait for drilling to get done here******************)
P30
NAT03 (FACE GROOVE)
T030303
G97 S413 M3
G0 G95 X50. Z50. M8
X4.615 Z0.0083
G96 S500
G1 Z-0.0417 F0.003
Z-0.33
G0 Z0.0083
X4.486
G1 Z-0.0417
Z-0.322
G2 X4.502 Z-0.33 L0.008
G0 X4.502 Z0.0083
X4.808
G1 Z-0.0417
Z-0.234
G2 X4.744 Z-0.266 L0.032
G1 X4.744 Z-0.322
G3 X4.728 Z-0.33 L0.008
G0 X4.728 Z0.0083
X4.482+V20
G1 Z-0.322
G2 X4.502+V20 Z-0.332 L0.01
G0 X4.502+V20 Z0.0083
X4.808
Z-0.0117
G1 Z-0.0617
G97 S550 (WHATS THIS)
Z-0.236
G2 X4.748 Z-0.266 L0.03 F.0005
G1 X4.748 Z-0.322
G3 X4.728 Z-0.332 L0.01
G1 X4.502 Z-0.332
G0 Z0.0083
M9
G0 X50. Z50.
()
P40
(ROUGH BORE)
NAT10
T101010
G97 S838 M3 P40
G0 G95 X50. Z50. M8
X3.414 Z0.05
G96 S750
G1 Z-1.2313 F0.012
X3.3274 Z-1.2062
G0 X3.314
Z0.05
X3.538
G1 X3.638
Z-1.2313
X3.5514 Z-1.2062
G0 X3.538
Z0.05
X3.762
G1 X3.862
Z-1.2313
X3.7754 Z-1.2062
G0 X3.762
Z0.05
X3.986
G1 X4.086
Z-0.0213
G2 X4.073 Z-0.0429 L0.0393
G1 X4.073 Z-1.2313
X3.9864 Z-1.2062
G0 X3.973
Z0.05
X4.0555
G1 X4.1555
Z0.0036
G2 X4.1113 Z-0.0075 L0.0393
G1 X4.096 Z-0.0152
G2 X4.086 Z-0.0213 L0.0393
G1 X3.9994 Z0.0037
G0 Z0.05
(FINISH BORE)
X4.2098 Z0.05
G1 Z-.0003 F0.008
G2 X4.169 Z-0.0103 L0.0353
G1 X4.1536 Z-0.018
G2 X4.133 Z-0.0429 L0.0353
G1 X4.133 Z-1.2313
X4.0464 Z-1.2062
G0 Z0.05
Z50. X50.
(END OF UPPER TURRET)
()
()
()
()
()
()
()
()
()
()
(LOWER TURRET)
(FLIP)
(FACE)
G14
G141
P10
NAT01
T010101
G50 S2000
G97 S522 M3
G0 G95 X50. Z50. M8
X5.85 Z0.0
G96 S800
G1 X3.9 F0.008
Z0.025
G0 Z0.05
(TURN)
X5.5432+V21 Z0.05
G1 Z0. F0.008
G3 X5.593+V21 Z-0.0103 L0.0353
G1 X5.6684+V21 Z-0.048
G3 X5.689+V21 Z-0.0729 L0.0353
G1 X5.690+V21 Z-0.5052
X5.7756 Z-0.4803
G0 X5.789
M9 M5
G0 X50. Z50.
()
P20
G14
G140 (****************alarm here***********)
(LEFT SPINDLE LOWER TURRET)
(DRILL)
NAT12
T121212
G97 S400 M3 P20
G0X0. Z0.1 M8
X0. Z0.1
G74 X0. Z-1.3 D2.6 F0.005
G0 X0. Z0.1
M9
G0 X50. Z50.
()
P30
G14
G141
(ROUGH BORE)
NAT08
T080808
G97 S667 M3 P30
G0 G95 X50. Z50. M8
X4.2952 Z0.1
G96 S750
G1 Z-0.491 F0.012
X4.1343
X4.0654 Z-0.5255
X3.9788 Z-0.5005
G0 X3.9654
Z0.054
X4.4252
G1 X4.5252
Z-0.491
X4.2952
X4.2086 Z-0.466
G0 X4.1952
Z0.054
X4.6552
G1 X4.7552
Z-0.491
X4.5252
X4.4386 Z-0.466
G0 X4.4252
Z0.054
X4.8852
G1 X4.9852
Z-0.491
X4.7552
X4.6686 Z-0.466
G0 X4.6552
Z0.054
X5.1152
G1 X5.2152
Z0.0013
G2 X5.1883 Z-0.0075 L0.0393
G1 X5.1126 Z-0.0454
G2 X5.0896 Z-0.0731 L0.0393
G1 X5.0896 Z-0.491
X4.9852
X4.8986 Z-0.466
G0 X4.8852
Z0.05
(FINISH BORE)
X5.2958
G1 Z0. F0.008
G2 X5.246 Z-0.0103 L0.0353
G1 X5.1702 Z-0.0482
G2 X5.1496 Z-0.0731 L0.0353
G1 X5.1496 Z-0.495
X4.1896
X4.123 Z-0.5283
X4.0364 Z-0.5033
G0 Z0.1
Z50. X50.
Z-4.
P50
M2
%

Feeback on cnc design

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Hi guys,

I've recently started designing a cnc machine and I would like some feedback on the design before I start ordering parts. I do intend to use it for light metal working. A link to a STEP file can be found below.

I use 40x40mm aluminium T extrusion for the frame,
nema 24 (3.1Nm) for x and y and nema 23 for Z. There are 2 nema 24 motors driving the y axis, because I'm afraid the frame will start "pulling" with one motor if there's an offset load. That's one point of concern. Is it doable to sync up those stepper motors so that they run identical, or would it be better to figure out a way to use a single, stronger motor that is centred under the cnc for the y movement? (major design overhaul)


A chinesium 2.2kW spindle
HGR20R rails with HGH20CA bearing blocks for x and y
HGR15R rails with matching bearing blocks for z
screws are RM1650 en RM1204 for xy and z, respectively.

All plate material, except for a couple of shim parts here and there is 10mm steel.

STEP file can be found here. Uploadfiles.io - cnc.stp
Any feedback is appreciated

Total newbie, hobbyist question: Screeching with countersink in aluminium

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Hey, I finished building my DYI cnc and started with drilling holes and countersinking. Drilling works fine, but I have issues with countersinking. I'm using a super cheap 6 flute 12mm countersink (82°) with a very slow feed rate of 15mm/min and RPM of ~2400. I can't go lower with the rpm because my 1.5kw china spindle will get stuck below that. (btw. can I make it keep a steady rpm under load somehow ? I'm using the standard Huanyang 1.5kw inverter). Well at these settings the countersinking is reasonable, but still sounds a bit painfull, especially when going a bit deeper into the material (doing 10mm radius countersinks on 5mm holes). As soon as I go higher with the RPM I will get a deafening screeching sound. Any tips ? Is it the crappy tool or am I doing something totally wrong ? I heard I should go way lower with the rpm, but my spindle just can't handle that.

Sherline 6210 "Ultimate Machine Shop" Mill/Lathe + CNC upgrades (never unboxed!)

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I'm John, an architect/builder/product designer in Colorado.

A few years back, I had a project idea and I bought the Sherline 6210 "Ultimate Machine Shop" mill/lathe kit with the CNC upgrades.

Long story short: I never got to it and the machines were never assembled (let alone used).

Check them out here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-62...0/332441069627

Thanks!

how do i by pass photocell safety barrier?

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hello im new here and not sure on how fast a response will come but here goes nothing :drowning:... i run a scm pratix n 15 with a 5' x 12' vacuum table. For saftey we have a caged in area and an open area for loading. in the open area we have 2 photocells which shut the machine down if the light beam is broken, in case someone walks into an area where they could be struck by the 3 axis router head and boring unit... there is a wiring issue at the moment and we wont have the replacement cords for at least 3 days.. Is there a way to by pass the photocell barrier and run the machine without them or a way to turn them off can i use a mirror as long as its not the receiving end that is messed up???? im ope for any suggestions we have a lot of men and women to keep busy and with my machine down they are all dead in the water so to speak

Need Help! Post Processor for Gildemeister Twin 102 w/ Siemens 840D Control

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Looking for a PP for our machine with Turn/Mill enabled.
Or looking for something similar that can be modified to work with our machine.
I am a mill guy and i'm trying to get the lathe guys running on FeatureCAM also so we can turn to complete some of our projects.

Thanks for any help


Help me understand what all a breakout board does

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I thought I has a decent understanding of this, but it seems there's more to it. From my understanding, the breakout board is pretty much the same no matter what control software you use. It takes your Parallel chord and allows you to split off to your stepper drivers, limit switches, etc. So the control software can send signals to drivers or receive signals from limit switches. So I would think technically, you could just cut a Parallel cable and split off the wires to your drivers and switches if you knew what was. Obviously you wouldn't do this, just trying to understand why some breakout boards have no components on them, and simply break out the connections, and others have a bunch of components on them like micro chips, etc. What is the difference? What more does it need to do other than make the connections between the computer and drivers/switches? Just trying to get a better understanding before I start purchasing components for my diy cnc. Any input is appreciated.

Need Help! Bridgeport VMC560

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Hello everyone, Looking for parameters,
Bridgeport VMC560
Control TNC2500
Spindle and Servo System Siemens

CNC System 9000 RAS Multi Bend Center Config Restore

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Hi guys,
I've a controller that I think is called System 9000. My problem is that it lost all data. I think to have all files backup to restore them. I've yet restored, the interface language and the blades settings, I think, but in the general settings, the controller don't show me the machine name and other data. I see only a lot of ????? Instead of data that I see on the emulation software on my pc. Someone know which kind of control it is, and which kind of extension I need to findto have the system backup files. I've a lot of files with progrrams of the machine. I've found .wkx for the tools, txt for the language, now I think that the only file that is missing is the one for the system settings backup. Tomorrow I can upload some photos if they can be useful to rrecognize it.
Thank you and I hope that this is the right section.

Chinese spindle matched to invertek VFD

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right so had a few issues to say the least based on my last two threads but im here now.

So we received our 3Ph 400V invertek vfd and installed it today, it is powering a 3ph 220v chinese spindle.

so changed the perameters in the VFD to match the spindle name plate and when go to run the spindle the vfd starts to run up and then trips with a fault code stating over curent so either short or something.. so we incresed the ramp time no luck does the same... the spindle does try to move tho.

so the question is i have checked the resistance across the phases/windings on the spindle and each one is reading about 1 Ohm (matched) is this correct/what should i expect? but also after reading a thread where the debate about 3 pin plug spindles and earthing got a bit "heated". i have a 5 pin plug so pins 1,2,3 are drive outputs U,V,W and and earth pin (labled as) and so have i have a pin 4 should i leave that empty or is that another earth?? could that be the cause of this issue.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-COOLE...4AAOxyj4hTHuXp

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-COOLE...gAAOxydgZTJ8eh

next is after doing more reading i have found other identical units on ebay but the stated current is for the ebay ones is 12A the sticker on ours says 9.5A is this an incorect sticker and so need to change the current to 12A in my inverter or have they sudenly change specs?

sorry if this is not clear trying my best.

regards
chris.

Mori Seiki TL-1 CNC lathe Turning Center auction 272930464909 only $2000

Need Help! STRINGERS IN 1018 MARTERIAL

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We are turning 1018 and getting lots of stringers. Our New GM doesn't like to see them in hoppers, but in the past it has always been a problem with this gummy material. We have tried a lot but not every insert out there, we use mostly Iscar or Tungaloy WNMG 432 or DNMG 432 inserts. We normally are cutting .100 per side, 6oo sfm and .010 fpr. Any thoughts on eliminating the stringers? Thanks

Australia Advise on direction

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Artist hobbist, looking to branch into small run manufacturing.

Ok so i am a emerging sculpture artist, and i have a 3d vector art back ground.
right now i make everything pretty much by hand and tools, be it sculpting in clay, carving shaping eva foam or polystyrene.

From there i tend to cast and make molds then pour and fill molds pop out final piece paint and display sell leave to gather dust.

jumping in and getting a smallish hobby cnc router Chinese or otherwise doesn't phase me. Its bridging the new language gap. As some of the terms i haven't heard before. As well is the order /process so to speak is new.

all i can do is say what i am trying to do. And hope one of you is able to say yep yep got it ok you need to do this learn that then do that and push print. Basically.

ok so i have a 3d background, i grew up making maps and mods for video games, games like warcraft, C&c franchise. Then dukenukem 3d came out. I began here and latter when half,life came out i moved away from just making maps to making item to populate the maps. So began 3d / vector art phase. I have used some of these programs over the years.
milkshape, rhino, coraldraw, photoshop, 3dsmax, blender, but my bread and butter go to is maya. But i have also dabbled in a few other programs at least generally to save or modify file types then export and convert so on bring them to maya and generally work on then them there.

another thing i have done is used a xbox kinetic to 3d scan things, but this was very early on in 3d scanning development and it was a rather crappy piece of software that the models canned needed more post production than it was worth.

so what i need to be able to do and i am highly guessing its possible.

i need to make model in maya preferable. Export or convert to the chinese 6090 i am still yet to buy and have said model routed

what i dont want to have to do is sit there and program the g code bit by bit from start to finish on all its cutting routes. as i need that in my life like i need a ball pint hammer to the head. I am trying to save time here and less wastage, with fewer flaws. Not lose time on having to hand write out pages of g code for a cutting path. I need a process thats smart enough, quick, efficient and lazy enough to do it its self. E.g drag and drop here change a few integers print.

now thats all well and good for small items or one sided item that fit on the bed. But the next process i need a bit of help with is say flipping a piece and zeroing it back in again. Say i was cncing a coin. Id put a bit of copper down, it would carve engrave one side. Done its cut the edge out half way. When it comes time to flip the copper plate and get the machine to do the second half of say the coin how do i get said random chinese machine to zero the work space and know were it needs to cut for the second half of the coin to match up exactly with the first half. Are these two separate cutting jobs or is it smart enough pause long enough for me to flip the work. Then it zeros on again. Or is it like primitive were id need a perfect size sheet with the table marked and a perfect 3d cutting job for both sides and when i flip and clamp pray it all matches up.

this leads onto my next issue. Some of the art ill be making will be much bigger than the cutting bed. Not so much the area but the height or z axis. Most bench to machines are around the 100-150mm mark. Which i can work with if able to do layers. Again, is this as easy as adjusting a few things in the export settings. Or am i going to have to slice the model up and export a job for each layer. Then how do i maintain continuity of size shape across the board. E.g i print a pyramid in layers. I start printing the base layer first it fills the work area. But when i start printing the second layer which should be smaller, is it going to try and blow it up to fill the work area again. Small issues like this.

next i want to see if any one knows of a way of accurately 3d scanning things and stream line the process to get the cnc router to print. E.g i get old mate to stand there. I use x box kinetic to scan him. Out puts a 3d model, into vectors, which i can then blow up or shrink and slice it layers and distribute into cutting jobs for the machine. Then i take the slices out glue them together and old mate can have a life size model of him self plus a mini version of him self in high end detail.

finally i need a hand with and nuances or issues going from material. Example most of my works going to be out of eva foam. The machines gunna eat it like crazy. The depth and cutting speed for rough cutting could prolly be max. Its going to provide very littler resistance to the spindle, the bit, the frame or the servos. But when i told old mate about it. He wants it to cut out steel well aluminum. Which i know would need to have it slowed down more torque. A different bit like carbides fine point duel fluted and do a lot of many slow passes dropping down like half a mill each time. With water cooling spindle and cutting past jetted.
so i know a thing or two but would need to be adjusted every now and again. So i pretty much looking for a cnc for dummies guide in this area. But thats ok as old mate might want to do ally, most my works in foam, but id also like to maybe make some table top miniature terrain out of wood or like car bog, the odd relief out of wood. Hell if i can take a chunk of aluminum block and carve a perfectly mating two part mold out of that. id want to keep or use the mold for a near infinite amount of runs other than having to make a new plaster backing for my silicon molds every 50 odd runs or when i crack it, it drop it, that would be amazing. Old mate can get his suit of armor, mum can get her plastic signage for her caravan and life goes on.

the machine specs i am looking at are 2.2kw water cooled spindle water jet and bed to handle ally jobs, accuracy less than a mill to handle those fine jobs, detachable vacuum for those foam jobs. No one wants hot pink foam from ass hole to breakfast, like that **** gets everywhere, hand dremeling the crap is crazy, ill sit there carving a piece for a few hours if its blue foam i walk out looking like a smurf. 60x90 work area basically the largest one i can put on a bench without it needing its own subframe that would then stand in the middle of the work shop taking up space next to the pool table. I dont know if i need a dsp controller or if i can do it all on the computer, i have seen dsp controllers built into the controller and circuit board box, which seams like a better option than losing a dsp remote or having the kids run off with it. Usb or SD card reading jobs would be a nice option that way i am not going back and fourth with a lap top or sticking a computer out in a rickety shed full of spiders and bugs.

what i am kinda hoping is you guys can say have you ever heard of this program, its exactly like maya shouldnt take to long to learn, you can even import ya old maya files into it, this plugin talks to 3d scanners heres a download link. When you export the job you can drag and drop, drop down menu the cutting path, which you can set multiple speeds, and depths, as well as pauses with beep or email sms notification to change or flip the work piece. The machine will easy zero on by its self or with this sensor bit. The cutting menu even has a bunch of preset options that sets speed torque depth for a range of different materials. You just need to put in the recommended bit in. Or once you understand it you can add custom options in. You will need a cnc machine that understand this recommended programs file type. If not you might be able to find a converter here at this link. This type of bits best for cutting ally, this ones best for foam/plastic, this ones good for stone or grit. This ones good for wood. Oh and send us pics on what you have made.

^i know rite wishful thinking, any help will do guys.


Sherline 6210 "Ultimate Machine Shop" Mill/Lathe + CNC upgrades (never unboxed!)

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I'm John, an architect/builder/product designer in Colorado.

A few years back, I had a project idea and I bought the Sherline 6210 "Ultimate Machine Shop" mill/lathe kit with the CNC upgrades.

Long story short: I never got to it and the machines were never assembled (let alone used).

Check them out here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sherline-62...0/332441069627

Thanks!

Laser Nesting Software Suggestions

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Looking to purchase a simple nesting software for an older Trumpf 3030. No automation, only a shuttle table. What would be an affordable option that ypu have experience with? I appreciate any input.

Granite surface plate mounting

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Hey guys, Im in the market for a granite surface plate, and I don't have a level table I can put it on. So I figured I would need a mount for my granite surface. But the mount and granite plate together is pretty expensive. I was wondering if I took three leveling feet turn them upside down and hold the plate with the rubber ends and mount it on my table. I have a very accurate level and I can use the leveling feet to make the surface plate level as well regardless of the table

Turning multiple parts from Bar in one program.

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I have a job that requires me to thread and part off 3" x 1/4" Rings out of 6061 aluminum. Our spindle only has a 2.5" Bore so we chuck a piece hanging out long and slice them off one at a time. I would like to write something that will repeat this cycle 20 times without having to make a long program. This machine has a Fanuc OT controller and does not support G54 style work offsets, only a single work shift set in the controller. Currently, I have the program set to stop the parting tool above the stock so I can press measure after each cycle.

Need Help Please: FANUC 11M

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Hi All,
I have an Acromax MX16, with an 11M control and I'm having an issue with the spindle. It wouldn't run over 900 RPM. It would just stop, and show no alarms on screen. I had to power down and restart. There were 2 alarm lights on the board, 8 and 4, which I found out means it's an ALARM 12 "overcurrent flows to DC Link". I'm not very knowledgeable on electronic stuff, so I replaced the board(price was very good!). Powered it up, and ran spindle over 1000 RPM. Yay! fixed! Nope, spindle won't shut off! I have to power down completely. Restart, and it does the same thing. Can anyone offer any suggestions? Thank You!--------- John :cheers:

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